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HAND-BOOK 


FRUIT   GROWERS, 


CONTAINING 

A    SHORT    HISTORY    OF    FRUITS    AND    THEIR    VALUE  -  IN 

STRUCTIONS    AS    TO    SOILS    AND    LOCATIONS  -  HOW    TO 

GROW  FROM    SEEDS  -  HOW  TO   BUD  AND    GRAFT  - 

THE  MAKING  OF  CUTTINGS  -  PRUNING  -  BEST 

AGE  FOR  TRANSPLANTING,  ETC.,  ETC. 

WITH    A 

CONDENSED  LIST  OF  VARIETIES  SUITED  TO  CLIMATE. 


ILLUSTRATED. 


Made  for  Those  Who  Grow  Fruit  for  Their  Own  Use. 


BY  F.  R.:  ETJ4OTT, 
NEW  EDITION  EfrE 


ROCHESTER,  N.  Y.: 

ROCHESTER  LITHOGRAPHING  COMPANY, 

PUBLISHERS. 


3.  S*£ 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1870, 

BY  D.  M.  DEWEY, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


PREFACE. 


The  preparation  of  the  pages  in  this  work  have  been  in- 
stigated by  a  long  time  attention  to  the  wants  of  those 
who  yearly  plant  out  fruit  trees,  vines  and  plants. 

Visiting  our  yearly  gatherings  of  men  throughout  the 
country  at  the  local,  county  and  state  agricultural  and 
horticultural  societies'  meetings,  together  with  the  fact 
that  not  an  editor  of  a  journal,  more  or  less  devoted  to 
the  improvement  of  rural  life,  and  as  aid  thereto,  gives 
items  touching  of  fruit,  etc.,  but  is  almost  daily  in  re- 
ceipt of  questions  touching  the  ' '  How  and  when  to 
plant  ? "  i  l  What  varieties  to  use  ? ' '  has  brought  us  to  write 
as  plainly  and  practically  as  possible,  and  within  a  scale 
that  may  be  sold  at  a  price  to  meet  the  pocket  of  every 
man  who  desires  to  plant  trees  or  vines  in  his  ground,  look- 
ing forward  to  their  producing  him  valuable  fruit,  to  min- 
ister as  food  toward  health  and  longevity  of  life. 

The  works  of  DOWNING,  THOMAS,  BARRY  and  others, 
while  embracing  the  whole  matter,  yet  require  an  outlay 

348915 


IV  PREFACE. 

of  money,  which  we  hope  the  reader  of  our  pages  herein 
will  find  equally  to  his  interest,  and  at  a  small  pecuniary 
cost. 

To  those  who  can  afford  to  buy  the  three  to  five  dollar 
book,  we  say,  do  so;  but  the  work  we  now  present  you 
may  be  placed  in  the  hand  of  any  novice  connected  with 
tree  planting,  and  enable  him  to  plant  and  trim  a  tree  or 
vine  in  such  manner  that  it  will  prove  a  success. 


HISTORY  AND  VALUE  OF  FRUITS. 


With  the  limited  space  given  us  by  the  publisher,  we  can 
but  draw  a  few  words  touching  the  first  of  fruits,  and  the 
progress  thereof  to  the  present  day. 

As  we  read  outside  of  the  Bible,  we  find  that-  mox 
than  6,000  years  ago  the  grape,  apple,  pear,  peach,  apri- 
cot and  plum  were  grown.  Even  then  the  art  of  grafting 
was  known,  but  the  world  had  not  then  its  many  millions, 
as  now,  nor  was  a  legitimate  knowledge  of  reading  and 
writing,  among  the  masses  of  the  people,  then  prevalent 
as  at  this  time. 

From  the  first  of  our  biblical  teaching,  we  learn  that 
the  apple  was  a  feature  connected  with  humanity ;  and  so 
in  every  section  of  country  and  climate  we  find  fruits, 
natural  to  the  clime,  are  part  and  parcel  of  the  food  of 
the  people. 

When  the  first  settlers  of  this  country  landed — say  in 
1500 — they  brought  with  them  seeds  of  the  apple,  pear, 
etc.,  and  many  cuttings  of  vines  and  flowering  plants, 
which  they  hoped  could  be  grown  in  the  land  of  their 
adoption.  Fortunately,  it  that  time,  the  forest  was  such 
as  to  break  the  storms,  and  leaves  were  so  abundant,  that 
they  could  protect  the  young  plants,  which  soon  took 
root  in  the  rich,  natural,  vegetable  loam. 


6  HISTORY    AND    V'ALUE    OF    FRUITS 

Soon  Virginia  and  other  southern  localities  of  this 
country  were  settled,  and  the  growths  of  their  clime  came 
almost  super-natural,  to  the  supply  of  food  for  mankind. 
Little  by  little  transportation  and  communication  came 
between  the  north  and  south  of  what  is  now  the  United 
States  of  America,  and  with  it  has  progressed  every  spe- 
cies and  variety  of  fruit  and  its  culture. 

We  have  had,  during  the  past  century,  many  enthu- 
siastic workers  in  the  fruit  and  flower  line, — those  who 
faithfully  believed  in  advocating  to  those  about  to  plant, 
a  careful  study  and  knowledge  from  practical  men  in  the 
growth  of  tree  and  fruit. 

Our  limits,  taking  in  what  we  want  to  write  practically ,. 
of  how  to  grow,  etc.,  will  not  permit  us  to  enumerate  by 
name  the  many  men  who  have  labored  in  the  act  practi- 
cally, and  writing  mentally  toward  the  advance  of  fruit 
culture.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  not  a  state  north,  east, 
south  or  west  but  has  one  or  .more  names  long  to  be 
remembered  by  every  man  woman  or  child  who  resides 

outside  of  the  dingy,  narrow  streets  and  dirty  alleys  and 

air  of  a  city. 

' '  God  made  the  country — man  made  the  town  ; ' '  please 

take  this  old  truth  daily  before  you  in  thought,  to  a  perfect 

digestion. 

Ere  I  leave  this  chapter  I  must  quote  from  one  of  the 

men  who  knew,  believed  in,  and  worked  up  his  subject. 

Doctor  J.  A.  KENNICOTT,  of  Illinois,  wrote  as  follows: 
"The  free  use  of  ripe  fruits  not  only  prevents  disease \ 

but  their  regulated  enjoyment  helps  to  remove  that  which 

already  exists.     All  ripe  fruits  are  also  more  or  less  nutri- 


SOILS    AND    LOCATIONS. 


tious.  It  has  been  clearly  demonstrated  that  the  apple 
is  superior  to  the  potato  in  the  principles  that  go  to  in- 
crease the  muscle  and  brain  of  man ;  and  in  fattening 
properties  it  is  nearly  equal  to  any  other  food.  Ripe 
grapes  have  cured  epidemic  dysentery.  Families,  where 
fruits  are  most  plentiful,  and  ripened  good,  are  most  free 
from  disease  of  all  kinds,  especially  from  fevers  and  bowel 
complaints.  Most  fruits  aid  digestion  ;  some  directly  and 
some  indirectly,  and  their  free  use  lessens  the  desire  for 
alcohol  or  other  stimulents.  The  juicy  ones  act  as  dilu- 
ents, and  all  as  diuretics,  the  free  acids  neutralizing  the 
earthy  matters  in  the  blood." 


SOILS  AND  LOCATIONS  BEST  ADAPTED, 


The  above  heading,  in  the  growing  of  fruits,  has  many 
and  multiple  of  views  by  those  who  have  given  their  record 
in  the  meetings  of  agricultural  and  pomological  societies. 
The  whole,  however,  rests  in  the  fact  that  the  tree  must 
have  its  roots  where  there  is  an  under  current  of  moist- 
ure, that  can  be  taken  up  by  the  tap  or  lower  roots,  in 
times  of  dry  atmosphere  and  lack  of  moisture  upon  the 
surface.  Again,  the  tree  must  not  be  situate  in  a  low  val- 
ley, or  confined  air  space,  without  an  underground  drain- 
age, for  here  the  cold  is  increased,  and  added  to  the 
moisture  of  the  valley,  is  often  five  to  seven  or  ten  de- 
grees of  Fahrenheit  below  that  of  the  high  ground  adjoin- 


SOILS    AND    LOCATIONS. 

ing.  The  apple  called  Grimes '  Golden,  or  Grimes '  Golden 
Pippin,  originated  upon  a  high,  well  drained,  limestone 
point,  and  is  recorded  for  years  of  bearing  a  fine,  high 
flavored  fruit.  To-day  it  has  no  favor  on  average  soils 
and  locations  as  a  general  fruit  crop,  and  has  only  a  single 
star,  each  of  three  states,  in  the  American  Pomological 
Society's  transactions,  1873. 

Some  of  the  most  valuable  orchards  known  stand  on 
elevated  situations,  with  what  is  generally  termed  a  thin, 
light,  loamy  soil,  resting  upon  a  basis  of  lock.  In  such 
positions  the  trees  do  not  grow  as  rapidly  as  in  deeper 
and  richer  soils,  but  they  become  fruitful  sooner,  and 
continue  a  long  and  productive  life. 

Thorough  drainage  in  all  cases  is  essential  to  healthy 
growth  of  tree  and  productiveness.  Aspect  is  also  a 
material  circumstance,  and  should  be  modified  by  the 
climate  and  variety  of  fruit  to  be  grown.  A  peach  orch- 
ard will  bear  warmth  better  than  one  of  the  hardy,  firm, 
wooded  varieties  of  apples,  pears  and  plums.  It  is  well 
for  the  planter  to  study  the  position  whereon  he  intends 
to  plant,  and  ere  deciding  upon  positions  for  certain  trees,, 
look  over  the  surrounding  country,  and  note  the  success 
or  failure  of  others  who  have  gone  before  him  in  the 
work.  According  as  this  is  adapted  to  the  growth  of  the 
variety  planted,  will  be  his  success.  It  is  not  policy  to 
stimulate  trees  into  growing  luxuriently,  by  means  of 
manures;  a  healthy,  steady,  yearly  growth,  ripening  the 
wood  perfectly,  forms  the  most  permanent  orchard. 


HOW  TO  GROW  FROM  SEED. 


THE  SAVING  OF  SEEDS — FROM  WHAT  THEY  SHOULD 

BE    TAKEN. 

It  is  a  mooted  point,  even  in  this  intelligent  age,  as 
to  whether  certain  improvements  in  the  varieties  of  fruits 
can  be  had  by  taking  the  seed  of  some  one  really  good 
variety,  that  is  surrounded  by  or  near  to  other  equally 
good  varieties,  and  from  their  natural  impregnations 
come,  or  whether  artificial  impregnation  of  one  variety 
upon  another  of  distinct  character,  termed  hybridizing,  is 
the  best.  The  former,  certainly,  so  far,  has  given  the 
most  valuable  results,  but  the  process  is  one  slower  than 
the  latter,  by  which  results  can  be  shown  in  about  one-half 
the  time.  As  we  are  now  not  writing  a  scientific  treatise, 
but  trying  to  make  plain,  practical  matter,  by  which  he 
who  reads  can  practice ;  and  as  we  know  that  the  arti- 
ficial impregnation  of  one  flower  upon  another  of  a  dis- 
tinct class  is  attended  with  a  knowledge  of  time  to  study 
und  practice,  we  shall  advise  the  growing  from  seed  taken 
carefully  from  some  healthy,  hardy  tree,  producing  the 
best  of  fruit,  and  which  is  surrounded  by  others  of  a 
different  yet  good  character.  Ninety  times  out  of  a  hun- 
dred the  seeds  so  gathered  and  sown  have  produced  the 
<nost  successful  results. 


10  HOW    TO    GROW    FROM    SEED. 

We  have  read  much  of  what  has  been  done,  but  in  all 
cases  we  cannot  speak  confidently ;  but  to-day  believe  our 
best  apples,  pears,  etc.,  have  come  from  seeds  void  of 
man's  aid  in  their  impregnation.  We  do  know  that  Prof. 
JARED  POTTER  KIRTLAND,  of  Cleveland,  Ohio,  by  taking 
seeds  of  the  cherry  from  one  tree  that  was  near  to  others 
of  different  varieties,  has  produced  varieties  that  to-day 
rank  as  first  class,  not  only  in  this  country  but  in  Eng- 
land and  France.  Although  we  shall  again  name  these 
in  our  list  of  varieties  to  plant,  let  us  name  here  of  the 
Kirtland  cherries,  the  "  Black  Hawk,"  "  Brant,"  "  Deli- 
cate," "Ohio  Beauty,"  "  Cleveland,"  "  Rockport,  "  and 
"Pontiac."  This  same  amateur  grower  has  produced 
of  the  Tree  Peony,  varieties  of  greater  beauty  than  any 
we  have  received  from  abroad. 

Having  now  said  from  what  seeds  varieties  or  fruits 
should  be  grown,  or  the  stocks  used  to  graft  or  bud  upon, 
leaving  the  two  or  three  lower  limbs  to  show  the  fruit  of 
the  seedling,  we  will  say,  that  no  fruit  seed  should  ever 
be  permitted  to  get  dry.  It  should  be  gathered,  washed 
cleanly,  and  then  packed  in  light  layers  among  clean  sand 
or  charcoal  dust,  and  kept  free  from  heat  or  warmth,  until 
the  ground  in  spring  is  warm  enough  to  sprout  vegetation. 
The  better  and  plain  way  of  keeping  the  seed  is  to  bury 
the  packages  on  the  north  side  of  a  building,  and  covering 
with  three  to  four  inches  of  earth.  This  keeps  the  seeds 
dormant  until  time  for  planting  in  spring.  The  nut  fruit 
seeds,  like  peach  and  plum,  had  best  be  carefully  cracked. 
The  cherry  will  open  of  itself,  and  should  be  first  planted 
in  spring. 


BEST  AGE  FOR  TRANSPLANTING  OF  SORTS, 

HOW    TO    DO    IT, ALSO    THE    BEST    SEASON. 


The  best  age  for  transplanting  apples,  pears  or  plums 
as  standards — that  is  trees  grown  upon  roots  of  their  spe- 
cific sorts, is  at  two  years  from  the  growth  of  the  bud  or 
graft.  The  pear  grown  upon  the  quince,  the  apple  upon 
the  Doucain  or  Paradise  stock,  the  peach  upon  the  plum, 
the  apricot  and  nectarine  upon  the  plum, — should  be 
planted  at  one  year  from  growth  of  bud  or  graft. 

If  the  trees  come  from  a  nursery,  not  grown  by  yourself 
and  upon  your  own  ground, — then  ist,  wet  the  package, 
on  receipt,  before  opening.  2d,  dig  a  trench  in  some 
light,  dry  soil,  into  which  you  can  heel  in  the  trees  or 
shrubs.  Lay  these  trees  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five 
degrees,  the  tops  at  the  south  and  so  that  the  roots  and 
half  the  length  of  the  bodies  be  covered  with  earth.  The 
roots  eighteen  inches  deep,  and  the  bodies  ranging  from 
six  to  two  inches  as  you  go  from  the  upper  or  crown  roots 
of  the  tree  to  the  top. 

Trees  received  in  autumn  too  late  for  planting,  (after 
treating  as  above),  throw  some  brush  over  the  whole  and 
scatter  thereon  straw  or  leaves,  to  shield  from  sun  and 
cold  during  winter. 


12  BEST    AGE    FOR    TRANSPLANTING. 

Trees  can  be  transplanted  safely  at  any  age,  but  in  the 
work  there  must  be  knowledge  of  the  man  who  guides, 
it,  as  well  as  workmen  careful  of  their  work  among  the 
roots.  The  old  practice  of  moving  trees  by  frozen  balls, 
of  roots  caused  by  digging  around  in  late  autumn  and 
left  to  freeze,  and  be  moved  in  mid-winter  we  have  long 
since  abandoned,  knowing  that  careful  digging  of  the 
roots  and  preserving  them,  either  early  in  autumn  or  early 
spring,  the  tree  can  be  moved  with  better  success  and 
less  expense  than  the  old  ball  handling. 

The  writer  of  this  has  moved  trees — both  deciduous 
and  evergreen — in  mid-summer,  without  failure.  The 
growth  of  the  season,  however,  must  have  formed  and 
ripened  with  a  terminal  bud,  and  when  deciduous  trees 
were  removed  at  that  time,  the  foliage  was  all  removed 
by  clipping  it  from  the  petiole  half  way  to  the  bud.  With 
evergreens  we  clip  back  nearly  all  of  the  present  year's 
growth,  leaving  one  bud  only  upon  the  wood  of  the 
present  year. 

The  best  season  to  plant  but,  we  may  say,  is  very  early 
in  autumn  or  early  spring.  Location  and  climate  must, 
however  guide  the  rule.  In  the  Southern  States  mid- 
winter is  the  time.  In  the  Southwest,  March  and  April,, 
not  later,  is  the  time.  In  the  temperate,  or  zone  of  most 
of  our  hardy  trees,  early  autumn  for  apple,  pear  and 
plum  ;  for  peach,  apricot,  grape,  nectarine,  early  spring. 
The  North,  as  of  Minnesota,  Canada,  etc.,  had  best  ob- 
tain their  trees  in  the  autumn,  heel  them  in  as  we  have 
described,  and  not  plant  until  the  ground  is  a  little 
warmed  in  spring. 


BEST    AGE    FOR    TRANSPLANTING.  13 

Ere  we  leave  this  chapter  on  planting,  let  us  remind 
those  who  plant,  that  the  holes  should  be  four  inches 
at  least  larger  than  the  diameter  of  the  roots  ;  that  the 
base  center  of  the  hole  should  be  just  a  little  crowning  ; 
that  the  roots  should  be  carefully  spread  as  they  natur- 
ally grew,  and  fine,  rich  earth — no  manure — placed  in 
and  around  them,  by  the  fingers  of  the  hand  outspread. 
Place  the  tree  so  that  its  upper  tier  of  roots  will  be  cover- 
ed four  inches.  Do  not  tread  with  the  foot  upon  the  loose 
ground  over  the  roots,  for  it  only  has  a  tendency  to  bend 
them  out  of  place,  and  a  crooked  root  is  sure  to  make  a 
crooked  tree.  The  hand  or  spread  finger  pressure  of 
the  earth  firmly  at  the  base  of  the  tree  will  cause  it  to 
stand  firmly  and  never  need  a  stake  or  outside  support. 
The  writer  of  this  has  planted  thousands  of  trees  from 
one  foot  to  forty  feet  in  height,  and  never  used  a  stake. 
Mulching,  with  coarse  manure  at  first,  then  in  June  with 
fresh  mown  grass,  a  distance  of  say  six  feet  diameter 
around  the  body  and  over  the  roots  is  what  is  needed 
the  first  year  after  transplanting. 


WHEN  AND  HOW  TO  BUD  OR  GRAFT, 

OR  MAKE  CUTTINGS  OR  LAYERS. 


(Budding  is  a  process  of  propagation  of  varieties  ;  so 
also  grafting  and  growing  from  cuttings  or  layers .}  There 
are  various  modes  of  performing  the  work,  and  however 
well  we  or  other  authors  may  describe  it,  we  advise  every 
new  beginner  to  visit  a  leading  nurseryman  or  amateur 
fruit  grower  in  his  immediate  neighborhood,  where  he 
can  learn-more— in  a  half  day  of  observation  than  all  of 
what  is  printed.  In  order  to  be  successful,  both  the 
stock  and  graft  or  bud  should  be  in  a  healthy,  vigorous 
state. 

The  time  to  bud  is  generally  with  the  cherry  and  plum, 
in  August  following  with  pear,  apple  and  peach.  The 
name  of  the  month  here  specified  is  indicative  of  the  sea- 
son, and  taken  as  a  guide  for  the  northern  and  middle 
States.  The  grafting  period  is  usually  upon  the  ap- 
proach of  spring,  but  grafts,  in  large  quantities  are 
made  upon  pieces  of  roots  during  winter  and  packed 
away  in  sand  to  be  planted  in  spring. 

Cuttings  of  buds,  for  budding,  may  be  made  at  any 
time  when  the  tree  has  formed  its  terminal  buds  of  growth 
for  the  year  and  the  buds  are  ripe. 


WTTF.N    AND    HOW    TO    BiTD    OR    GRAFT  15 

Grafts  may  be  taken  from  the  tree  or  vine  any  time 
arter  the  leaf  of  the  year  has  fallen,  reference  however 
being  had  to  the  temperature  of  atmosphere,  which 
should  never  be  below  freezing.  The  various  modes  of 
budding  may  be  described  as  follows  : 


FIGS.    3  5       4          0  < 

American  Shield  Budding,  first  described  by  FORSYTH 
in  1802.  It  differs  from  the  common  shield  budding 
only  in  leaving  a  small  piece  of  wood  at  the  base  of  the 
bud  inserted,  instead  of  taking  all  out.  An  incision  is 
made  lengthwise  through  the  back  of  the  stock,  and  a 
small  cut  at  right  angles  at  the  top,  the  whole  somewhat 
resembling  the  letter  T. — (see  fig.  3.)  A  bud  is  then 
taken  from  a  shoot  of  the  present  year's  growth,  by  shav- 
ing off  the  bark  an  inch  or  so  in  length,  with  a  small  part 
of  the  wood  directly  beneath  the  bud. — (see  fig.  4.)  The 
edges  of  the  bark,  at  the  incision  in  the  stock,  are  then 
raised  a  little — (see  fig.  5,)  and  the  bud  pushed  downward 
under  the  bark. — (see  fig.  6.)  This  work  is  generally 
performed  with  what  is  termed  a  budding  knife,  one  end 
of  the  handle  of  which  is  of  ivory  or  bone,  and  so  smoothly 
shaped  that  removing  or  loosening  the  bark  to  admit  the 
bud,  does  not  injure  the  tender fibrouslines  beneath. 


l6  WHEN    AND    HOW    TO    BUD    OR    GRAFT. 

A  bandage  of  Dass  bark — (from  what  is  known  as 
Russia  matting,  or  made  from  stripping  of  our  Linden  or 
Bass-wood  trees  in  the  spring,  and  tempered  into  strips 
by  keeping  it  in  water  for  a  time,)  is  then  wrapped  around, 
commencing  at  the  bottom  and  passing  the  bud,  returning 
again  and  tying  just  below,  covering  all  but  the  bud. — 
(see  fig.  7.)  The  pressure  should  be  just  sufficient  to 
keep  the  inserted  portion  closely  to  the  stock,  but  not 
such  as  to  crush  or  bruise  the  bark.  Woolen  yarn, 
or  soft  strips  of  old  cotton  cloth  may  be  used  as  substi- 
tutes for  ties  in  place  of  the  bass  bark. 

In  about  ten  days  or  two  weeks  after  insertion,  the 
strings  or  bandages  will  require  to  be  loosened,  and  at 
expiration  of  three  weeks  removed  altogether. 

The  ensuing  spring,  as  soon  as  the  buds  begin  to 
swell  strongly,  cut  off  the  stock  about  six  inches  above 
the  bud  ;  and  as  the  shoots  of  the  bud  grows,  tie  it  with 
any  soft  material  to  the  piece  of  stock  above  its  insertion, 
until  about  mid-summer,  or  when  it  has  made  two  feet  of 
growth,  when  the  stock  should  be  cut  away  above  the 
bud — back  of  it,  and  leaving  a  sloping  cut  downward 
from  the  top  of  the  insertion  of  the  bud. 

When  you  are  inserting  buds,  never  put  the  bases  of 
the  stems  on  which  they  are,  in  water.  Keep  them  wrap- 
ped in  a  damp  cloth,  free  from  the  sun's  influence. 
Again,  when  you  cut  the  shoots  or  buds  for  insertion,  at 
once  cut  away  the  leaf,  otherwise  the  evaporation  will  ex- 
haust and  injure  its  vitality. 

Buds,  having  the  leaf  removed,  may  be  kept  fresh  and 
full  of  vitality  for  a  number  of  days,  if  placed  in  a  coo) 


WHEN    AND    HOW    TO    BUD    OR    GRAFT  17 

room  and  wrapped  in  damp  moss  or  cloths.  If  they  are 
to  be  mailed  they  should  have  damp  moss  wrapped  around 
them,  and  then  be  enveloped  in  oiled  silk  or  linen. 

Ring  Budding  is  another  style,  adapted  to  hard  wood 
wood  trees,  as  the  chestnut,  magnolia,  etc.  It  is  questjpn- 
able  whether  this  is  as  good  as  side  grafting,  for  which  see 
heading.  In  performing  this  a  ring  of  bark  is  taken 
from  a  limb  or  stock,  and  one  of  corresponding  size,  con- 
taining a  bud,  is  put  in  its  place,  (see  fig.  8.)  Trees 


FIG.  8. 

that  have  been  girdled  by  mice  or  rabbits  during  winter, 
may  be  festored  by  the  process  of  simply  putting  in  live 
bark  from  a  tree  of  its  kind.  Another  way  is  to  insert  a 
number  of  grafts  early  in  spring,  each  cut  with  a  sloping 
cut  on  the  inside  at  both  ends,  meeting  with  the  albumen 
or  sap  rising  formation  in  the  large  limb  or  stock. 

In  either  of  these  practices,  the  whole  should  be  cover- 
ed with  grafting  wax,  either  applied  with  a  brush  or  having 
been  spread  upon  cloth,  and  then  wrapped  over  the  whole. 
2 


GRAFTING. 


This,  like  budding,  has  numerous  modes  of  being 
performed.  It  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  plainly  un- 
derstood, practically,  from  reading,  of  any  course  of  pro- 
pagation. 

Whip  or  Tongue  Grafting.  —  This  is  most  generally 
practised  when  the  stock  and  scion  are  nearly  of  an  equal 
size.  The  whole  gist  of  it  lies  in  so  forming  the  graft 
and  stock  that  the  two  outer  surfaces  of  albumen,  or 
wood  of  last  year's  growth,  meet  one  with  the  other  ;  or 
if  the  stock  or  scion  be  either  too  large,  the  outer  line  of 
the  last  year's  growth  shall  match  on  one  side. — (see 
fig  10.)  The  tongue  is  a  notch  cut  in  the  stock,  corres- 


FIG.    10. 

ponding  with  one  cut  in  the  graft,  each  having  n,  lip,  as  it 
were,  to  meet  each  other,  and  when  put  together,  serve  as 


GRAFTING.  19 

a  support  in  steadying  the  graft,  until  the  circulation  of 
the  sap  has  united  it  with  the  stock. 

This  system  is  practised  largely  by  nurserymen  in  the 
propagation  of  the  apple,  and  is  generally  called  root  graft- 
ing. The  work  as  we  have  before  said,  can  be  done  in 
mid-winter, — the  roots  and  grafts  kept  in  sand  for  spring 
planting;  or  it  can  be  done  upon  stocks  in  the  open 
ground  in  spring,  or  upon  limbs  of  trees  in  bearing,  and 
upon  which  the  owner  desires  to  see  many  varieties. 

.  Splice  Grafting  is  similar  to  the  foregoing,  except  that 
no  slit  is  made  in  either  stock  or  graft,  and  consequently 
it  is  not  counted  as  desirable. — (see  fig.  u.) 


FIG.  ii.       » 

Crown  Grafting  is  another  mode.  It  is  rarely  done, 
however,  except  upon  small  stocks  standing  in  the  ground 
near  the  upper  rootlet  or  fiber. — (see  fig.  12.) 

Saddle  Grafting. — This  is  one  which  we  have  found 
practically  of  value  with  the  cherry,  peach,  plum,  apri- 
cot, etc.,  and  especially  if  we  had  a  new  variety  that  was 
received  late,  (fig.  13,) — shows  it  with  the  stock  pared 
obliquely  on  both  sides  until  it  becomes  an  inverted 


20 


CRAFTING. 


wedge.     The  scion  is  then  slit  up  the  center  and  sides 
pared  down  to  fit  the  sides  of  the  stock. 


FIG.   12. 

Side  Grafting. — This  is  one  of  the  modes  best  adapted 
in  the  grafting  of  the  cherry,  peach,  plum,  grape,  magno- 
lia, chestnut,  etc.,  when  grafts  are  not  of  full  vigor.  As 


FIG   13. 

may  be  seen  in  our  cut — (see  fig.   9) — a  notch  or  slit  of 
about  one  inch  long  is  cut  in  the   side    of  the    stock- 
paring  the  outer  portion,    then    splitting  the    graft    and 
paring  both  the  inner  and  outer  portion,  so  that  when  in 


GRAFTING.  21 

serted  i^ere  will  be  a  union  of  the  bark  and  wood.  The 
graft  should  be  wrapped  with  grafting  clay  or  wax — usu- 
ally wax  on  a  cloth  is  best — and  the  stock  should  not  be 
headed  in  until  the  graft  shows  signs  of  union,  and  then, 
the  pruning  back  should  be  gradual. 

Cleft  Grafting  is  an  old  mode  rarely  now  practised. 
It  consists  in  sawing  the  stock  or  limb  off  square,  then 
splitting  it  down  with  grafting  knife  or  chisel,  cutting  the 
lower  end  of  the  scion  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and  insert- 
ing it,  so  that  one  side,  at  least,  will  be  in  association  with 


FIG.  9. 

the  albumen  or  inner  bark.  The  withdrawing  of  the  chisel 
or  knife  holds  the  scion  or  graft  firm,  and  it  may  then 
be  protected  from  storms  by  grafting  wax  or  clay. 

Grafting  Wax  is  made  in  various  ways.  The  following 
has  credit  of  value  :  four  parts  rosin,  three  parts  of  bees- 
wax, three  parts  lard.  When  well  mixed  dip  cotton  cloth 
in  it  while  warm,  and  afterward  cut  them  to  meet  the  use 
you  require. 

Making  Cuttings,  whether  of  currant,  gooseberry  or 
grape,  any  time  from  the  fall  of  the  leaf  of  the  season, 
until  two  or  three  weeks  previous  to  the  starting  of  spring 
growth  is  a  good  time. 

The  gooseberry  and  currant  cuttings  should  be,  say 
eight  inches  in  length,  and  of  the  present  year's  growth 


22 


GRAFTING. 


from  the  strongest  shoots.  The  grape  cuttings  should  be 
made  any  time  from  the  fall  of  the  leaf  in  the  autumn  until 
the  buds  commence  to  swell  in  the  spring.  At  no  time 
should  they  be  taken  from  the  vine,  when  the  thermome- 
ter is  below  freezing. 

The  cuttings  should  be  of  the  best  and  ripest  wood. 
Any  well  ripened  wood  cut  with  two  eyes  on  it,  as  shown 
in  figure  5 ,  is  all  that  is  requisite  ;  and  yet  we  confess  a 
penchant  for  the  old  style  of  mallet  cutting,  which  is 
shown  in  our  figure  6.  It  differs  from  the  former  only  in 
the  fact  that  it  is  made  with  an  inch  or  less  of  the  old 


FIGS.  5.  C. 

wood  attached  to  the  base  of  the  cutting,  and  in  that 
attachment,  of  base,  or  crown  is  supposed  to  be  stored 
up  a  greater  amount  of  vital  life-giving  power  than  can 
be  concentrated  in  any  one  distinct  bud — that  junction 
or  connection  being,  in  fact,  filled  with  buds,  dormant 
so  long  as  the  main  bud  exists,  but  ready  to  do  service 
as  soon  as  that  is  destroyed. 


LAYERING  GRAPES. 


Some  varieties,  like  the  Delaware,  do  not  grow  readily 
from  cuttings  when  planted  in  the  open  ground.  If  you 
have  a  grape  vine,  say  three  years  old,  in  spring,  just  as 
the  buds  begin  to  swell,  lay  down  upon  the  ground  such 
vines  as  start  from  nearest  the  crown  or  ground.  Mark 
the  space  ;  then  dig  it  away  about  six  inches  deep,  in 
the  form  of  a  long,  narrow  trench.  Stretch  and  peg 
down  (/£,)  the  vine  as  shown  in  the  accompanying  sketch. 
As  soon  as  the  buds  have  grown  about  eight  inches, 
a  slight  clipping  with  the  knife  directly  underneath  the 
bud,  (a,)  and  fill  up  the  trench  with  a  good  soil, fastening 
the  extreme  end  with  the  peg  at  (£.)  In  the  autumn 
each  bud  or  new  plant  will  be  found  with  roots,  as  at  (d.) 
When  one  single  strong  plant  only  is  wanted  to  be  ob- 
tained by  layering,  bend  a  strong  shoot  and  cut  away  the 
end  bud?,  back  to  one  good  strong  bud,  and  let  this  alone 
grow. 


PRUNING  AT  TRANSPLANTING, 

AND  FOR  TWO  OR  THREE  YEARS  THEREAFTER  OF  THF 
APPLE,  PEAR,  PLUM,  PEACH,  GRAPE,  £TC. 


Trees  received  from  the  dealers,  in  the  hands  of  nurse- 
rymen, are  often,  we  regret  to  say,  so  wretchedly  taken 
up  and  packed  as  to  be  almost  worthless.  Again  there 
are  men  who  as  tree  dealers,  are  just  as  reliable  and  hon- 
est as  the  man  for  whom  they  take  an  order.  The 
buyer  must  beware  of  an  agent  that  has  no  vouchers  of 
the  fact  that  he  is  their  agent,  and  his  beat,  like  a  police- 
man's, is  over  a  certain  territory. 

Now,  when  we  write  for  the  public,  as  to  how  to  treat 
these  trees,  when  received,  and  how  to  prune  them  at 
transplanting,  we  have  a  wide  field  to  fill.  We  expect 
criticism  from  every  tree  salesman  and  so,  more  or  less 
from  those  who  send  out  their  agents.  -  Nevertheless, 
we  will  and  must  say  here,  and  forever  hereafter,  that 
the  planting  of  orchards,  and  culture  of  fruits,  is  largely 
due  to  the  tree  agents,  who  have  engaged  in  the  going 
among  our  comparatively  isolated  people,  and  showing 
them  specimens  of  fruits;  also  colored  illustrations  of  the 
same,  with  a  promise  to  deliver  trees  that  will  produce 


PRUNING   AT    TRANSPLANTING.  25 

the  same,  at  a  certain  time  on  payment  of  the  regular  rates 
of  the  growers  or  nurserymen. 

With  this  preface  to  our  treating,  let  us  say  that  when 
your  trees  are  to  hand  by  means  of  packing,  and  trans- 
portation, you  will  from  neglect  of  the  transporters,  find 
some  dried,  and  others  with  the  tops  broken,  etc. 
Some,  and  most,  at  this  period,  are  cased  in  boxes,  so 
that  broken  tops  etc.,  cannot  be  laid  to  the  charge  of  the 
transporters. 

When  the  trees  come  to  your  hands,  have  ready  a  trench 
to  imbed  the  roots ;  but  ere  you  imbed  them  take  each  tree, 
an dx with  a  sharp  knife,  from  the  wider,  toward  the  upper 
side  of  the  root,  cut  it  smooth,  taking  away  all  the  rugged 
lines;  next  take  the  top  branches  and  as  apparently  of 
the  roots;  they  should  be  shortened  in  the  main  branches, 
one-quarter  to  two-thirds  of  the  past  years  growth,  while 
all  of  the  small  twigs,  or  limbs,  be  cut  cleanly  to  a  line  of 
the  branch  from  which  they  grow. 

This  done,  and  our  rule  for  planting  pursued — see  fore- 
going— no  special  care  will  be  needed  until  one  year  has 
passed;  then  the  trees  should  be  gone  over  again,  say  at 
the  time  near  to  the  formation  of  the  terminal  buds  of 
growth  of  the  year  ;  care  in  pruning  should  now  be  es- 
pecially given  to  the  shortening  in  of  irregular  branches 
that  show  tendency  to  destroy  the  true  roundish  upright 
head  ;  small  slender  twigs  should  be  cut  away  close  to  the 
branch  from  where  they  have  grown.  Do  not  leave  a 
knob  of  half  an  inch  projection,  but  cut  clean  and  smooth, 
and  the  wound  will  soon  heal. 


26  PRUNING    AT    TRANSPLANTING. 

Trees  pruned  yearly,  judiciously,  without  too  much  of 
thinning  out  of  the  tops,  because  our  hot  suns  require 
foliage  to  shade  the  limbs  far  more  than  in  climates  of 
more  regular  and  even  temperature ;  will  rarely  require 
to  have  a  large  limb  removed.  Old  orchards  that  have 
been  neglected,  it  is  best  to  go  over  at  the  same  time  given 
above  for  young  trees.  Do  not  practice  the  use  of  an  axe 
and  leave  a  knob  of  six  inches,  to  either  send  out  many 
sprouts,  or  rot  and  decay,  sending  its  poison  into  the  sap 
that  goes  to  form  new  wood.  Use  a  pruning  saw,  and 
trim  all  smooth  with  a  knife ;  then  paint  or  gum  over  the 
fresh  cut. 

Soft  wooded  trees  like  the  peach  or  grape  vine,  a  hali 
inch  or  so  should  be  left  above  the  bud ;  but  with  these 
rarely  is  it  necessary  to  cut  limbs  or  canes  over  half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  diameter. 

The  standard  apple,  pear  and  plum,  should  have  theii 
first  branches  start  at  about  three  to  four  feet  from  the 
ground,  while  those  to  be  treated  as  dwarfs,  as  the  apple 
on  Paradise  stock,  pear  on  quinces,  peach  on  plums, 
should  have  the  lower  branches  start  from  about  one  foot 
from  the  ground,  and  yearly  so  pruned  as  to  cause  them 
to  form  a  pyramidal  shape  at  first ;  this  being  brought 
into  a  rounded  head,  at  the  end  of  three  or  more  years, 
by  shortening  the  leading  upper  shoots  the  most. 

There  are  a  few  leading  points  in  the  pruning  and  cul- 
ture of  trees,  of  which  DUBREUIL,  a  french  author  who  has 
been  largely  quoted,  gives  some  good  points  in  pruning ; 
in  others,  our  practice  leads  us  to  think  he  fails.  When 


PRUNING    AT    TRANSPLANTING.  27 

he  says: — we  quote — "  that  the  vigor  of  a  tree,  subjected 
to  pruning,  depends  in  a  great  measure,  on  the  equal 
distribution  of  sap  in  all  its  branches,"  he  is  measurably 
correct ;  but  when  he  adds  :  "the  most  vigorous  parts, 
should  be  pruned  short,  at  the  same  time  leaving  the  weak 
shoots  long,"  we  think  he  errs;  for  our  experience  has 
been,  that  cutting  back  the  strong  shoots  to  two,  or  three 
buds,  and  leaving  the  inferior  shoots  long,  has  broken 
the  form  of  growth  we  would  have  in  the  leading  shoots, 
and  left  us  at  two  years,  with  a  mass  of  puny  branches 
to  be  cut  away  as  refuse  and  unsightly. 

All  this  varies  however  in  the  varieties  of  trees  ;  some 
have  little  or  no  tendency  to  throw  out  small  twigs,  as  Te- 
tofsky  and  Red  Astrachan  apple,  Bartlett  and  Clapp's 
Favorite  pear,  etc;  and  while  it  has  been  said,  and  is  by 
many  advocated  to-day,  that  a  tree  once  rightly  started, 
and  then  left  to  itself,  free  of  pruning,  will  most  fully  de- 
velop its  sap,  and  come  into  bearing  more  healthfully 
than  when  trained  to  meet  the  mind  of  man. 

Again  in  pruning,  it  is  said  by  DUBREUIL,  that  when 
the  tree  comes  into  bearing,  the  leaving  of  a  large  quantity 
on  the  strong  shoots,  and  removing  it  mainly  from  the 
feeble,  that  the  sap  on  the  strong  wood,  will  be  absorbed 
by  the  fruit,  and  it  will  make  little  growth,  while  the 
parts  will  increase  in  size ;  this  does  not  coincide  with 
our  experience.  A  practice  of  this  course  two  years 
found  us  with  little,  or  no  good  sized  or  rich  fruit ;  but 
with  our  tree,  all  cluttered  and  out  of  shape. 

We  would,  that  the  limit  of  the  work  designed  by  the 


28  PRUNING    AT    TRANSPLANTING. 

publisher  would  permit  us  to  carry  out  the  whole  of  this 
subject,  but  we  fear  it  will  not  ;  we  will  only  add,  that  in 
all  of  pruning  of  the  pear,  apple,  or  cherry,  and  perhaps 
other  varieties,  no  knife  should  ever  be  used  after  the  first 
three  years  from  transplanting  ;  walking  through  the  orch- 
ard and  seeing  here  and  there  a  limb  growing  too  fast  to 
meet  equality  in  after  time  of  its  associates  ;  just  a  pinch 
of  the  finger  and  thumb,  breaking  away  to  a  bud  ;  the 
soft  wood  of  the  end  is  all  the  pruning  that  is  required. 
Nature  is  wild  and  is  responsible,  like  mankind ;  but  like 
mankind,  she  does  best  with  just  a  gentle  check  here  and 
there,  now  and  then. 


THE   GRAPE. 


"Vve  nave  shown  in  a  former  article,  a  chapter  how  to 
form  the  grape  cutting  for  out  of  door  growing.  We  now 
propose  to  show  how  to  plant  and  prune  the  grape,  which 
next  to,  if  not  superior  to  the  pear,  is  bound  to  be  part 
and  parcel  of  every  small  homestead,  and  from  it,  on  to 
its  hundreds  of  acres  for  supply  of  its  luscious  and  health- 
ful food  to  the  millions  that  have  no  garden  grounds. 

Once  upon  a  time,  the  writer  had  much  to  do  with  var- 
ieties of  grapes,  the  growing  from  cuttings,  layers,  etc., 
and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  a  good,  strong,  healthy, 
well  rooted  plant,  grown  with  space  of  one  foot  apart, 
was  better  and  more  likely  to  be  successful  than  the  plant 
grown  from  a  single  eye  and  only  three  inches  apart  in  a 
frame.  My  estimate  is  now  appreciated  by  one  who 
watched  my  work,  and  who  says  now  that  every  year- 
ling grape  grown  from  a  cutting  should  have  eighteen 
inches  of  space  to  make  it  really  valuable. 

But  let  me  show  the  reader  of  this  book  my  illustra- 
tions of  how  I  made  cuttings,  and  how  the  roots  and 
growth  showed.  They  all  had  the  same  care  and  soil. 
As  before  said,  in  an  item  of  how  to  form  a  grape  cut- 
ting for  out-door  culture,  we  present  the  following  illus- 
trations. Figure  A  shows  a  cutting  made  of  two  buds,  all 


3° 


THE    GRAPE. 


the  lower  part  being  rasped  with  a  coarse  woo.d  file,  cross- 
wise over  the  surface,  and  breaking  up  the  continuity  of 
outline,  tearing  and  destroying  the  outer  cuticle  or  bark, 


FIG.  A. 

and  rendering  the  wood  more  accessible  to  the  action  of 
moisture  and  heat.  Some  growers  shave  all  the  bark  off 
from  the  lower  end  of  the  cutting.  There  are  some 
doubts  of  the  practical  value  of  this  method.  We  have 
been  unable  to  perceive  that  the  cuttings  so  shaved  or 
rasped  made  any  more  certain  or  vigorous  growth.  In 
Delaware  and  Nortons  we  fail  to  grow,  say  ten  per  cent. 
Why,  when  they  all  apparently  are  equally  good  cuttings, 
have  the  same  handling,  etc.,  is  this  so? 


FIG.  B. 
Figure  B  is  a  representation  of  a  two-eyed  Delaware, 


THE    GRAPE.  3! 

prepared  and  grown  with  the  rasping  process.  The  lower 
roots  were  strong  and  good,  but  the  wood  below  the  bud 
all  destroyed. 

The  cutting  called  the  mallet  differs  only  in  the  fact 
that  it  is  made  with  an  inch  or  less  of  the  old,  or  two- 
year-old  wood  attached  to  the  base  of  the  cutting;  and  in 
that  attachment  of  base  or  crown,  are  supposed  to  be 
stored  up  a  greater  amount  of  vital,  life-giving  power  than 
can  be  concentrated  in  any  one  distinct  bud,  that  junction 
or  bud  being,  in  fact,  filled  with  buds,  dormant  so  long  as 
the  main  bud  exists,  but  ready  to  do  service  as  soon  as 
that  is  destroyed. 


FIG.  C. 

Figure  C  shows  a  representation  of  this  cutting ;  and 
we  are  strongly  disposed  to  believe  that  when  the  most 
sound,  healthy  plants,  vigorous  in  every  essential  of  vital 
life,  are  wanted,  they  must  be  procured  from  cuttings 
made  to  embrace  this  junction  of  old  and  new  wood; 
wherein,  as  in  the  crown  of  the  seedling  tree,  the  most  of 
life-giving  power  exists.  We  do  not  doubt  but  that  under 
care  and  culture,  the  plants  grown  from  single  eyes,  or 
two-eyed  cuttings  of  last  year's  wood,  may  in  time  become 
full  and  perfect;  but  their  growth  is  constantly  enfeebled, 
and  more  and  more,  as  the  buds  from  which  they  are 
gro-w  n  are  destitute  of  full  and  perfect  life. 

The  ground  in  which  these  were  planted,  after  being 
kept  in  sand,  so  that  they  exhibited  a  slight  callous  or 


32  THE    GRAPE. 

little  white  lip  of  delicate  tissue,  just  around  the  outer 
edge  of  the  lower  cut  was  of  a  light  sandy  loam,  and 
after  planting  the  cuttings,  old  tan-bark  was  spread  two 
inches  deep  over  them. 

Most  of   the  cuttings    were  put    under   the    soil   two 
inches  above  the  top  of  the  bud. 


FIG.  i. 

Fig.  i  is  from  one  of  the  strongest  woods  and  buds, 
having  an  inch  of  wood  below  the  bud.  Its  roots  and  top 
are  strong ;  the  number  of  large  roots  not  as  many  as  in 
fig.  B  ;  but  they  are  longer  and  stronger.  Let  me  sav  just 
here  that  the  wood  growth  was  not  all  alike 


THE    GRAPE. 


FIG.  2. 

Fig.  2  is  a  representation  of  a  single  bud  of  wood  like 
fig.  i  ;  but  its  vitality  was  not  the  same,  consquently  the 
growth  is  not  the  same. 

Fig.  3  shows  the  growth  of  roots  and  top  of  fig,  i,  in 
the  spring  of  the  following  year. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  I  have  now  no  drawing  of  the 
roots  of  the  best  of  the  cuttings,  as  the  mallet  cutting 
having  a  piece  of  the  old  wood  at  the  base  of  lower  bud 
of  the  cutting. 

Having  shown  partly,  but  not  quite  fully,  the  growing 
from  the  cutting,  let  me  come  to  quotations  of  a  thorough- 


34 


THE    GRAPE. 


bred  cultivator  of  the  grape }  and  I  believe  the  readers  of 
this  book  will  not  regret  it 


FIG.  3. 

He  says,  "  I  have  been  looking  over  my  former  year's 
work,  have  been  reading  back  or  rather  over  again  the 
views  of  others,  and,  after  studying  all,  I  took  my  spade 
and  digging  fork  and  went  to  an  Isabella  vine,  planted 
some  ten  years  or  more  since,  and  which  has  never  shown 
any  disease,  but  yearly  ripened  its  fruit  regularly  and 
evenly.  It  was  in  clay  soil.  I  dug  carefully  all  around  it 
a  distance  of  four  feet  each  way  from  the  vine,  or  eight 
feet  diameter,  took  out  a  trench  with  spade,  then  with  my 
fork  I  commenced  to  shake  out  roots,  but  there  was  no 
direct  tap-root  of  any  size,  and  altogether  the  larger  por- 
tion of  the  roots  were  within  ten  inches  of  the  surface. 
Small  roots,  as  large  as  a  goose  quill,  it  is  true,  were 
apparently  down  below.  Some  of  them  pulled  up  in  lift- 
ing the  vine,  others  broke  off,  but  there  was  not  a  large  or 
main  root  so  situated. 

It  may  not  be  that  this  is  any  guide  showing  the  genera) 


THE    GRAPE.  35 

habit  of  roots  of  the  vine,  when  grown  in  vineyards  of  clay 
soils  and  yearly  pruned  ;  but  for  the  present  I  think  I  will 
so  consider  it,  and  when  I  plant,  avoid  as  I  have  gen- 
erally heretofore,  setting  my  roots  too  deep.  Most  writers 
on  the  grape  tell  us  that  the  roots  must  be  planted  deep, 
at  least  they  must  have  ten  inches  of  soil  over  and  above 
the  upper  root  of  the  plant ;  and  they  tell  us  that  if  the 
plants  are  too  small  for  such  purpose,  then  we  must  ex- 
cavate a  basin,  set  the  plant,  and  as  it  grows,  fill  up  around 
the  stem.  In  my  soil,  if  the  spring  proved  a  rainy  one, 
were  I  to  plant  in  that  way  I  should  have  my  labor  for  my 
pains  ;  for  all  the  plants  would  rot  before  they  could 
possibly  grow  sufficiently  to  allow  the  earth  to  be  drawn 
to  a  level. 

The  following  figure  shows  this  mode  of  planting  as  I 
understand  it  : 


A  straight  line  drawn  across  from  the  ends  of  the 
dotted  line  would  show  the  level  of  the  ground;  the  dotted 
line  the  excavation,  with  the  plant  having  two  eyes,  and 
set  in  just  deep  enough  to  cover  the  lower  eye  or  bud 
with  soil.  The  roots  are  shortened  as  here  shown,  to 
about  eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  spread  out  regularly, 
setting  the  base  of  the  main  stem  on  a  little  mound  or 
rise — not  a  sharp  cone,  but  a  broad  mound. 

I  have  practised  this  mode  as  an  experiment,  and  with 


30  THE    GRAPE. 

a  disposition  -.^  try  all  ways,  but  in  three  successive  years 
I  failed  of  getting  as  early  a  growth,  nor  did  my  vines 
make  up  for  lost  time  in  the  hot  months  of  summer,  as  has 
been  sometimes  stated  they  would. 

The  next  manner  of  planting,  highly  recommended  by 
good  cultivators,  I  have  followed  with  good  results.  It  is 
to  prepare  the  ground  where  this  plant  is  to  stand  by 
finely  pulverizing  it,  then  excavate  a  breadth  or  circle 
sufficiently  wide  to  admit  of  straightening  out  the  entire 
roots  of  the  vine  without  cutting  away  a  single  inch  ; 
make  the  excavation  about  six  inches  deep  at  the  outside 
of  the  circle,  and  rising  so  that  the  center  is  four  inches 
below  the  level  of  the  surrounding  ground.  The  accom- 
panying figure  shows  this  method,  the  straight  line  being 


the  surface  of  the  earth,  the  dotted  line  below  that  of  the 
mound  on  which  the  plant  is  placed  before  filling  in  the 
earth.  This  depth  for  planting  I  believe  a  good  one,  but 
I  fail  to  find  any  gain  from  leaving  so  much  root ;  and  as 
it  increases  the  labor  and  expense  of  planting  fully  one- 
half,  I  think  I  shall  follow  out  my  old  plan,  viz  : — with  my 
knife  I  cut  away  every  small  fiber  or  thread-like  root,  and 
all  that  are  as  large  around  as  one  of  FABER'S  lead 
pencils,  I  shorten  back  to  sixteen  or  eighteen  inches,  then 


THE    GRAPE.  37 

prepare  my  holes  with  the  mound  in  center,   and  plant 
just  as  when   the  roots  are  of  full  length. 

1  never  use  any  water  or  muck  for  dipping  my  roots 
when  setting,  but  I  keep  them  well  wrapped  in  a  wet  cloth, 
from  which  I  take  out  one  at  a  time,  as  wanted  for 
planting." 

As  an  item  of  record,  it  may  be  well  to  say,  that  single 
grape  vines  trained  upon  a  wall,  say  of  a  house  or  barn, 
and  well  supplied  with  food  at  the  root,  will  often  produce 
all  that  one  family  would  need.  On  Kelley  Island,  we 
once  saw  a  vine  of  Catawba,  the  roots  of  which  were 
near  where  the  daily  wash  of  slops,  soap-suds,  etc.,  were 
thrown  from  the  house,  and  from  which,  yearly,  two  to 
three  hundred  pounds  of  ripe  grapes  were  gathered 

It  is  said  that  one  of  the  largest  grape  vines  in  the  world 
is  at  Montecilo,  near  Santa  Barbara,  California.  It  is 
estimated  to  be  over  one  hundred  years  old,  is  nearly  five 
feet  in  circumference,  and  rises  eight  feet  erect  from  the 
root,  where  it  branches  out  in  every  direction.  It  is  said 
to  have  produced  six  tons  of  grapes  in  one  season,  and 
that  fifteen  hundred  gallons  of  wine  have  been  made  from 
't  in  one  year. 

WHEN  TO  PRUNE. 

The  best  time  is  just  at  the  fall  of  the  vine  leaf  in  Oc- 
tober. Let  the  main  pruning  be  at  that  time,  if  it  be 
possible  to  command  that  time ;  but  if  the  work  cannot 
then  be  done,  do  it  if  you  can,  before  severe  freezing 
weather;  if  not  then  done,  postpone  it  until  there  comes 


38  THE    GRAPE. 

a  regular  thaw  in  winter — say  a  week  or  ten  days  of  soft, 
moist  weather,  when  the  frost  is  nearly  or  quite  out  of 
the  ground — and  then  don't  neglect  your  duty  any  longer. 

HOW  TO  PRUNE. 

This  is  the  second  question,  and  one  that  is  answered 
so  variously  by  writers  on  grape  growing,  and  is  talked  of 
so  oppositely  by  vignerons,  that  an  answer  in  any  way  will 
be  said  by  some  to  be  assuming  ;  but,  having  studied  the 
grape  pretty  thoroughly,  and  having  read  every  treatise  of 
which  we  have  ever  heard,  and  practiced,  or  observed  the 
practise  of  each  writer,  we  feel  that  what  we  say  of  * '  How 
to  Prune,"  if  practised,  will  result  in  success  to  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  vine  on  which  it  is  performed. 

Each  variety  almost,  will,  after  the  first  two  years,  re- 
quire a  distinct  system — so  that  any  general  rule  for  grape 
pruning  of  our  vines  would  fall  to  the  ground  if  attempted 
to  be  practised.  The  grape  grower  must  first  learn  the 
habit  and  character  of  his  variety,  and  then  he  can  adapt 
his  pruning  and  training  to  a  mode  or  system  consonant 
with  its  class. 

But, of  "  How  to  Prune,"  let  us  say, first,  that  summer 
pruning — that  is,  cutting  away  of  foliage  after  the  blossom 
has  opened — is  now  counted,  by  the  majority  of  vignerons, 
as  an  error  ;  and  the  reason  for  the  error  is,  that  each  leaf 
and  end  of  a  shoot  has  a  corresponding  connection  with 
the  spongioles  or  feeding  ends  of  the  roots,  and  once  the 
leaf  or  shoot  connecting  therewith  is  broken,  the  spongi- 
ole  rootlet,  or  feeding  mouth,  is  affected — is  closed  from 


THE    GRAPE.  39 

its  natural  action,  and,  as  a  consequence,  rot  and  decay 
ensue,  creating  at  the  root  of  the  vine,  a  fungoid  disease 
which,  if  the  same  system  of  summer  pruning  were  per- 
sisted in,  would,  in  a  few  years,  result  in  apparent  out- 
ward disease  of  the  vine,  and  in  rot  and  mildew  of  the 
fruit. 

Having  said  this  much  of  summer  pruning,  let  us  now 
suppose  you  have  a  vine  planted  this  past  spring,  and  that 
you  have  permitted  it,  as  you  should,  to  grow  just  as 
many  or  just  as  few  shoots  or  vines  as  it  pleased  ;  but  now 
you  want  to  put  it  into  shape,  so  that  next  year  it  will  in- 
crease in  strength  of  root  and  prepare  itself  to  give  you 
fruit  the  year  following.  Take  then  your  knife  and  cut 
away  all  the  small  canes,  selecting  the  largest  and  best  in 
the  center,  or  as  grown  from  the  strongest  center  bud,  and 
cut  that  so  that  your  vine  will  be  as  represented  in  Fig.  i. 


FIG.   i. 

This  first  season  all  vines  may  be  acceptably  pruned  ir 
this  way  ;  but  when  the  growth  in  spring  comes,  it  be- 
hooves the  grower  to  know  his  vine  and  his  soil.  For 
while  a  Concord,  Hartford,  or  Norton,  etc.,  will  in  good 


40  THE    GRAPE. 

soil  be  the  better  for  permitting  the  three  buds  here  shown 
to  grow,  the  Delaware,  Rebecca,  Mottled,  Elsinborough 
and  some  others,  will  be  better  to  have  only  two  buds  per- 
mitted to  grow.  As  the  buds  start  in  spring  there  will  be 
more  or  less  of  sucker  sprouts  start  from  the  root,  and 
the  dormant  bud  at  base  of  the  main  bud  will  often  start ; 
the  vine  must  then  be  watched,  and  as  soon  as  a  shoot 
appears,  other  than  the  two  or  three  strong  ones  from  the 
regular  buds,  they  should  be  at  once  rubbed  out,  and 
thenceforward,  during  the  summer,  rub  or  prune  no  more  ; 
let  all  grow  ;  for  although  old  time  cultivators  will  tell  you 
to  cut  or  pull  away  the  laterals,  we  tell  you  that  the  later- 
als serve  to  add  to  the  size  and  vigor  of  the  lower  part  of 
the  cane,  and  the  buds  thereon,  and  every  additional 
ripened  leaf  adds  to  the  volume  and  strength  of  the  root 
for  the  coming  year's  aid. 

Supposing  your  vine  to  have  been  a  Delaware  or  Re- 
becca, or  any  of  that  class  of  short  jointed,  comparatively 
slow  growers,  it  will,  at  the  close  of  the  second  season, 
present  much  the  appearance  of  Fig.  2  ;  but  if  it  has  been 
a  Concord,  Hartford,  Wilder,  etc.,  then  you  must  add  a 
third  cane  to  make  our  figure  exhibit  what  your  vine 
should  be  in  September  of  the  year. 

And  now  your  season  for  pruning  has  again  come,  and 
by  its  pruning  you  hope  for  fruit  the  coming  season. 
Your  Concord,  Hartford,  or  other  strong  growing  kinds, 
having  been  grown  to  three  strong  canes,  if  your  posts 
and  wires  are  put  up,  and  it  is  pruned  and  tied,  it  will,  or 
should,  look  very  much  like  Fig.  3,  on  page  44. 

Each  of  these  canes  has  three  buds,  and  the  two  upper 


THE    GRAPE. 


FIG. 


2. 


42  THE    GRAPE. 

buds  on  each  cane  are  to  produce  fruit,  while  the  cane  on 
the  lower  bud  is  to  have  whatever  fruit  it  will  set  rubbed 
away,  and  the  canes  trained  for  fruiting  another  year. 

On  vines — say  those  of  five  or  more  years  old,  and 
with  such  varieties  as  Concord,  etc. — these  canes  should 
be  much  longer,  and  have,  when  pruned  in  autumn,  from 
eight  to  ten  buds  each,  and  then  in  spring,  each  alternate 
bud  should  be  rubbed  out,  just  before  the  blossoming  of 
the  vine.  Fig.  4  is  a  representative  of  an  irregular  grown 


FIG.  4. 

vine  of  the  past  or  second  year,  and  now  cut  to  two  canes 
of  four  buds  each,  with  a  spur  cane  at  the  base  of  one  of 
them,  from  which  to  grow  canes  for  the  coming  or  suc- 
ceeding year.  This,  with  its  four  buds  to  a  cane,  it  is 
supposed  should  have  the  lower  and  the  third  buds  rub- 


THE    GRAPE.  43 

bed  out  betore  the  setting  of  fruit,  while  the  upper  and 
second  buds  will  give  each  three  bunches,  making  twelve 
bunches,  full  as  much  as  any  young  vine  should  bear.  So 
much,  in  a  condensed  form,  of  "  How  to  Prune." 

Thus  far  the  vines  have  been  trained  to  simple  rough 
stakes  ;  but  now  the  trellis  must  be  erected,  as  the  next 
or  third  season  will  require  its  use.  Iron  wire  is  found 
the  cheapest  and  best  for  the  purpose ;  the  tendrils  of  the 
vine  cling  to  it,  which  they  never  do  to  wood,  and  thus 
very  much  of  the  labor  of  tying  is  saved.  The  size  of 
the  wire  generally  used  is  classed  as  No.  9.  It  should  be 
annealed  in  order  to  make  it  tough. 

ROWS  OF  TRELLIS. 

"  The  rows  of  the  trellis,"  say  some  vignerons,  "should 
run  north  and  south,  because  at  the  period  that  the  grapes 
are  ripening  they  obtain  more  of  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun 
than  when  they  run  east  and  west ;  the  sun  being  low  at 
that  season,  part  of  the  vines  are  always  in  the  shade." 
Other  practical  men  urge  the  east  and  west  lines,  "  be- 
cause, "  they  say,  "  at  the  season  of  ripening  of  the  grapes, 
the  midday  suns  heat  and  reflect  from  the  ground  much 
stronger  upon  the  full  face  of  the  vine,  than  when  the 
rows  are  north  and  south." 

I  have  seen  the  perfect  ripening  of  both  lines,  and  con- 
sider that  more  is  due  to  the  cultivation,  soil  and  pruning 
than  the  position  of  the  trellis. 


44 


THE    GRAPE. 


PUTTING  UP  THE  TRELLIS. 

Strong  posts  are  to  be  set  at  each  end  of  the  rows  and 
braced,  as  shown  in  Figure  '3.     These  braces  are  from 


FIG.  3. 

eight  to  twelve  feet  long,  and  fastened  at  the  bottom  to  a 
post  set  firm  in  the  ground  ;  then  at  a  distance  of  eighteen 


THE    GRAPE.  45 

or  twenty  feet  on  the  line  of  the  row,  set  other  posts,  leav- 
ing each  post  about  six  feet  out  of  the  ground. 

NUMBER  OF  WIRES. 

Three  or  four  wires  are  required,  placed  at  a  distance 
of  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  upward  from  the  ground. 
Three  wires  are  sufficient  except  for  very  strong  vines, 
when  the  fourth  is  advisable  for  the  purpose  of  securing 
the  upper  growths,  and  preventing  their  falling  down  over 
the  lower  vines  and  fruit. 

The  vines  should  be  fastened  at  one  end  post,  then 
stretched  along  the  line.  A.t  each  middle  or  intervening 
post  the  wires  are  raised  and  a  staple  is  driven  partially 
into  the  post  in  such  manner  as  to  keep  the  wire  at  the  re- 
quired height.  Next,  the  wires  are  drawn  as  tight  as  pos- 
sible and  fastened  at  the  opposite  end,  and  then  each 
staple  on  the  intervening  post  is  driven  home,  so  as  to 
fully  secure  the  wire  and  cause  a  certain  amount  of 
strain  to  rest  on  each  post. 


SMALL  FRUITS. 


VARIETIES    AND    CULTURE. 

There  is  in  this  class  of  our  fruits  varieties  of  every  cul- 
ture and  suited  to  almost  all  soils  and  climates.  Of 
course  when  bleak  cold  winds  prevail  during  the  dormant 
season  of  the  year,  more  or  less  of  protection  must  be 
given. 

With  Strawberries  one  must  to  a  certain  extent  give 
credit  to  the  line  of  latitude  below  40  deg.,  and  strange  as 
it  may  seem  to  many,  the  Wilson's  Albany,  which  origina- 
ted at  the  north,  and  is  generally  grown  both  in  family  and 
market  gardens,  is  the  most  popular  berry  at  the  south. 
The  Newman 's  has  favor  from-  a  few  in  South  Carolina, 
but  Georgia  says,  that  "it  is  a  large  and  showy  berry,  but 
is  inferior  in  quantity." 

The  Triomph  de  Gand  holds  as  a  family  or  near  market 
berry,  the  first  place. 

Longworth's  Prolific,  Downer's  Prolific,  Green's  Pro- 
lific, Ida,  Charles  Downing  stand  well  in  all  the  South. 
Yearly  many  new  varieties  are  brought  before  the  public, 
and  they  are  often  written  of,  yet  records  of  associations, 
where  people  profess  to  meet  and  give  information  as  to 


SMALL    FRUITS.  47 

value,  etc.,  of  sorts,  little  is  obtained.  The  Almighty 
Dollar  covers  all  of  those  who  have  invested  in  a  variety 
with  a  view  to  its  sale. 

To  amateurs,  those  who  care  only  for  their 'own  table 
eating,  we  advise  the  Nicanor,  Triomph  de  Gand,  Lennig's 
White ,  and  Royal  Hautbois,  adding  if  you  have  room, 
President  Wilder  and  Trollope's  Victoria. 

We  present  herewith  an  illustration  of  the  Nicanor,  the 
name  meaning  "The  Queen,"  and  which  F.  R.  ELLIOTT, 


of  Cleveland,  had  the  honor  of  naming  and  first  describ- 
ing. It  is  a  variety  of  value  that  should  be  not  only  in 
private  grounds,  but  also  of  those  of  the  market  gardener. 

Many  more  varieties  it  is  well  to  mention,  but  our  re- 
cord given  elsewhere  covers  all  that  can  yet  be  depended 
upon. 

We  have  Boy  den's  NO.$Q,  or  Seth  Boy  den,  Barnes*  Mam- 
moth, Crimson  Cone,  Monarch  of  the  West,  La  Constante, 
Mary  White,  Sterling,  Margaret,  Mary  Stuart,  Kentucky, 
have  each,  in  their  time  been  lauded. 

Could  we  who  write  grow  the  La  Constante  as  does 
J  AMES  A.  DOUGALL.  of  Windsor,  Canada,  a  town  just 


48  SMALL    FRUITS. 

opposite  Detroit  in  Michigan,  we  would  never  "be  without 
it.  It  is  the  berry  of  all  when  well  grown.  Now  don't 
let  any  obtain  it,  unless  they  intend  to  grow  it  carefully, 
cultivated  in  rich  deep  soil,  annually  surface  supplied  with 
food.  We  do  wish  it  was  more  grown,  but  there  is  no 
profit  in  it,  except  to  minister  to  the  palate  and  pleasure 
of  our  friends. 

We  will  now  quote  touching  Strawberries,  a  few  items 
from  a  writer  who  is  posted.  He  says,  speaking  first  of 
the  Alpine  or  Hautbois  class,  as  follows: — • 

"  I  have  been  looking  over  some  of  my  old  notes  and 
comments  made,  and  I  find  that  they  record  every  time 
the  speech  of  men  and  women  in  favor  of  the  delicacy 
and  peculiar  flavor  that  belongs  to  this  class  of  strawber- 
ries— a  class  which  is  acknowledged  unprofitable  .or  the 
commercial  grower,  but  for  those  who  grow  only  lor  their 
own  table  of  unrivaled  flavor  and  excellence. 

In  my  own  garden  I  have  grown  the  Red  Alpine  and 
Prolific  Hautbois  more  than  twenty-five  years,  and  have 
never  had  a  failure ;  and  to  be  left  without  them  now 
should  feel  that  I  was  either  behind  the  age  or  the  age 
was  not  cognizant  of  the  natures  of  these  varieties  for 
family  use.  The  latter  I  now  believe  the  true  state  of  the 
case,  but  am  willing  to  be  corrected — if  any  one  conceives 
it  possible. 

I  do  not  believe  the  amateur  grower  of  strawberries, — 
whether  done  by  himself  or  professional  employed  gard- 
ener,— should  ever  be  guided  by  quantity  produced,  or 
even  size ;  for  these  two  elements  almost  always  militate 
against  the  quality.  Let  them  cultivate  in  the  strawberry 


MALL    FRUITS.  49 

for  their  tables  the  refinement  of  culture  they  claim  to  ex- 
ercise in  that  of  literature  and  art,  and  they  would  no 
longer  grow  such  varieties  as  Jucunda,  Napoleon  III,  etc.. 
which  are  perhaps  valuable  in  localities  for  the  commer- 
cial grower,  and  for  sale,  to  those  who  have  no  concep- 
tion of  value,  except  it  be  represented  outwardly  to  view. 

With  these  prefatory  remarks,  I  proceed  to  describe 
two  or  three  varieties  of  the  class  of  Hautbois  strawberries, 
with  a  hope,  knowing  the  satisfaction  it  will  give,  that 
they  may  be  more  generally  grown 

Of  the  old  varieties,  none  deserve  higher  credit  or  more 
universal  cultivation  than  the  Prolific  Hautbois — a  variety 
that  although  long  known  by  those  whose  attention  has 
been  drawn  to  the  subject,  to  the  masses  is  yet  a  compar- 
atively new  sort.  The  vines  are  very  strong,  vigorous 
growers,  sending  up  their  long  fruit-stalks  nearly  level 
with  and  generally  above  the  leaf  foliage,  and  producing 
fruit  in  abundance,  of  full  medium  size,  conical  in  shape, 
of  very  dark,  almost  blackish  red,  when  ripe  moderately 
firm-fleshed,  juicy,  sweet  and  of  a  peculiarly  high,  arom- 
atic, pineapple  flavor,  never  to  be  once  eaten  but  to  be 
again  desired. 

The  Royal  Hautbois  is  another  and  perhaps  improved 
variety  of  the  above.  I  have  only  known  it  a  year  or  two, 
and  never  believe  in  commending  until  I  have  a  good  fair 
chance  of  being  able  to  sustain  my  comments.  So  far  as 
I  have  practical  knowledge,  however,  this  variety  is  desi- 
rable. The  fruit  is  medium  to  large,  roundish,  obtuse, 
conical,  with  a  whitish,  rich,  sweet  flesh. 

The  foregoing,  Hautbois^   are  unpopular  because  not 


50  SMALL    FRUITS. 

profitable;  for,  people  on  the  markets,  buy  by  the  eyer 
not  of  the  palate.  Few  in  the  world  have  a  delicacy  of 
taste.  Brought  up  on  fried  fat  meats,  and  sweetmeats > 
the  flavor  or  the  palate  has  been  as  much  destroyed  as 
in  that  of  the  drinker  of  poor  liquors.  Let  us  hope  for 
improvement  in  the  education  of  those  who  are  to  super- 
cede  us  in  life. 

Of  others  outside  of  the  Alpines  and  Hautbois,  there  are 
also  a  few  varieties  that  should  always  be  in  the  possession 
of  those  who  grow  strawberries.  The  Lennig,  La  Con- 
stant *  Triomphe  de  Gand,  are  of  delicacy  and  richness. 
A  new  seedling  under  the  name  of  Mary  White  is  much 
after  the  style  of  Lcnnig's,  only  a  little  more  flattened  in 
form.  Another  called  Sterling  is  after  the  Triomphe  de 
Gand,  when  well  and  fully  ripened.  In  form  it  is  more 
conical  or  obovate  conic,  in  color  a  rich  glossy  vermillion,. 
red  flesh,  a  little  acid. 

We  take  up  some  of  the  older  sorts.  Lady  Finger  one 
of  the  old  varieties,  is  in  favor  with  many,  while  others 
think  it  too  flavorless.  French  Seedling,  too  soft,  and  also- 
wanting  in  flavor.  Ida,  small  but  prolific ;  one  of  the 
earliest  and  latest  to  ripen,  of  a  quality  that,  when  ripe, 
everybody  likes,  and  one  that  amateurs  who  have  grown 
it  declare  they  cannot  dispense  with.  Michigan,  too 
small  and  unproductive,  but  of  good  flavor.  Green  Pro- 
lific is  an  abundant  bearer,  but  in  quality  no  better  than 
Wilson,  and  not  near  as  firm  for  market  purposes.  Tri- 
omphe de  Gand  holds  its  own  as  a  fine,  large  and  valuable 
sort,  when  well  cultivated  in  rich,  strong  soil. 

La  Constante,  Emma  and  Hooker  are  all  fine  flavored 


SMALL    FRUITS.  51 

sorts,  but  the  plants  require  too  much  care  to  keep  them 
going.  Napoleon  III  has  only  found  favorable  record  in 
two  or  three  places.  Dr.  Nicaise  has  not  been  heard  of 
since  its  first  season.  Agriculturist  has  good  reports  from 
many ;  and  were  it  not  so  soft  would  probably  be  more 
grown.  Peak's  Emperor  is  said  to  be  so  much  like  Agri- 
culturist that  even  good  judges  cannot  distinguish  them 
apart.  It  is  however  claimed  for  Peak's  Emperor  that  it 
will  succeed  on  soil  in  which  the  Agriculturist  fails.  Or- 
nament des  Tables,  as  heretofore,  proves  of  the  highest  fla- 
vor, but  unproductive.  Hovey  yet  holds  its  own  as  the 
finest  of  all  varieties  for  shipping,  but  it  is  not  sufficiently 
productive  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  present  age. 

Princess  Royal  and  King  Arthur  are  two  of  the  foreign 
sorts  that  have  favorable  accounts  of  giving  promise  of 
value .  Tillip  's  Rival  Queen  is  also  another  of  good  record . 
Lucas  has  fine  flavor,  but  too  unproductive .  Belle  de  Bor- 
delaise  is  said  to  be  the  best  of  all  the  Hautbois  class. 

The  Culture  of  Strawberries,  one  of  what  we  term  small 
fruits,  has  in  it  with  others,  items  of  practice,  depth  of 
soil,  character  thereof  and  location.  Our  American  va- 
rieties, taking  the  Wilson,  with  its  strong  roots  to  a  young 
plant,  and  Nicanor,  almost  equalling  in  this  particular, 
while  being  quite  as  fruitful  and  of  better  quality,  with 
Ida,  Green's  Prolific,  Kentucky,  and  some  others,  may  be 
planted  in  rows  three  feet  distant,  each  plant  set  in  the 
row  one  foot  from  each  other,  and  when  acres  are  grown 
the  cultivator,  propelled  by  the  horse  or  mule,  will  do 
most  of  the  cultivation.  In  the  small  garden,  what  is 
known  as  the  Dutch  scuffle  hoe,  followed  by  raking  the 


52  SMALL    FRUITS, 

surface  directly  afterward  with  a  common  iron  hand  rake,, 
is  perhaps  the  cheapest  and  easiest  mode  that  can  be  used 
by  the  grower.  At  the  north,  or  above  40  deg.  of  latitude, 
all  these  require  shielding  in  winter,  which  may  be  done 
by  the  use  of  straw  or  bog  hay  scattered  lightly  over  them 
and  held  from  being  blown  away  by  winds,  by  the  use  of 
poles  or  rails,  two  to  four  inches  in  diameter. 

All  the  foreign  varieties  like  the  Triomphe  de  Gand, 
Lemiig's  White,  Trollope's  Victoria,  Monarch  of  the  West,. 
La  Constante,  etc.,  should  be  cultivated  in  hills  having; 
one  good  plant,  at  distances  say  eighteen  inches  apart 
each  way,  the  runners  cut  away  as  fast  as  they  appear,, 
and  the  whole  strength  of  the  plant  thrown  into  the  fruit. 
If  new  plants  are  wanted  for  the  coming  year  the  fruit 
blossoms  should  be  picked  from  a  few  hills  and  the  run- 
ners left  to  take  root.  In  the  States  or  sections  below  40 
deg.  o/  latitude,  the  strawberry  is  grown  with  little  care  or 
culture.  They  need  no  winter  protection,  and  the  crop 
ripens  ere  the  hot  suns  injure  the  vine. 


RASPBERRIES. 

New  varieties  are  easily  grown  from  seed,  but  they  have 
a  tendency  to  change  from  the  parent.  A  fully  ripe  berry 
should  be  taken  and  planted  about  one  inch  deep  in  light 
loamy  soil,  and  shaded,  until  it  has  made  a  growth  of  two- 
leaves.  A  cheap  box  frame,  with  slats  ovei  the  top,  an- 
swers well,  and  when  the  plants  are  grown  six  inches  high 
they  should  be  transplanted,  shaded-,  and  protected  the 
first  winter.  Suckers,  or  offsets,  can  be  transplanted 


SMALL    FRUITS.  S3- 

either  in  autumn  or  spring,  taking  the  growth  of  the  season 
with  root,  and  cutting  the  stem  to  four  inches  of  the  crown 
of  the  root.  Plants,  the  growth  of  the  early  season,  may 
be  taken  up  and  transplanted  by  removing  most  of  the 
foliage,  as  with  the  strawberry.  The  soil  best  suited  to 
grow  the  finer  varieties,  is  a  rich  deep  loam,  where  there 
is  moisture,  but  such  drainage  that  water  will  not  stand. 

Soils  and  locations  unfavorable  can  be  made  good  by 
deep  culture,  and  by  placing  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
trench  along  the  row  line,  coarse  barn-yard  manure  or 
leaf  litter.  Then,  after  transplanting,  mulch  the  surface 
with  any  refuse  straw  or  hay.  Generally  an  open  airy 
location  is  advised,  but  where  shade  can  be  given  without 
exhausting  the  soil,  by  trees,  it  is  desirable,  and  especially 
with  the  southern  portions  of  our  States  and  the  valley 
regions.  The  systems  of  growing  vary,  and  perhaps  are 
equally  profitable.  Most  planters  grow  the  plants  three 
feet  apart  each  way,  with  two  to  four  canes  to  a  hill,  ac- 
cording to  the  soil.  Some  keep  them  upright  by  stakes 
and  wires,  others  by  simply  bending  the  bearing  cane  in 
spring,  to  form  arches  along,  leaving  the  present  years  to 
grow  upright,  then  cutting  away  yearly,  or  scon  after  the 
crop  is  gathered,  the  last  bearing  canes. 

Hardiness  of  varieties  is  a  feature  that  greatly  depends 
on  location.  In  Philadelphia,  parts  of  New  Jersey,  the 
south  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  and  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  most  of  the  foreign  varieties  and  their  Ameri- 
can seedling  offspring,  generally  prove  fruitful  without  the 
laying  or  bending  down  and  covering.  So  also  there  are 


54  SMALL    FRUITS. 

localities  adjoining  our  inland  lake  bodies  of  water,  where 
with  careful  looking  to  no  standing  water  in  the  soil,  and 
by  carefully  pinching  back  the  canes  for  next  year's  bear- 
ing, from  time  to  time,  varieties  prove  almost  hardy.  It 
is  impossible  to  write  definite  instructions  for  the  general 
readers,  and  the  territory  of  the  United  States. 

Of  the  hardiest  varieties  of  this  class,  i.e.  the  foreign 
and  their  American  seedlings,  we  will  start  with  those  we 
count  the  best,  and  in  the  order  of  ripening.  The  Kirt- 
land  is  hardy,  in  size  almost,  if  not  quite  equal  to  the 
Clarke  ;  is  the  earliest  of  all  to  ripen  ;  of  fine  quality  foi 
the  table,  but  too  soft  for  distant  market  transportation. 
It  should  be  in  the  garden  of  every  fruit  grower. 

The  Clarke  is  not  as  hardy  as  Kirtland,  nor  will  it  bear 
as  well  transportation.  Next  it  is  a  question  between  Na- 
omi and  Knevcfs  Giant,  and  when  the  product,  size  and 
quality  of  fruit  is  counted. 

Naomi — of  which  (see  illustration)  herewith  a  drawing, 
is  one  that  has  made  some  noise,  and  whether  nine  hun- 
dred and  ninety-nine  out  of  every  ten  hundred  that  have 
been  sold  under  this  name  prove  Franconia  is  doubtful. 
It  is  a  distinct  sort,  and  side  by  side  with  Franconia,  of 
which  it  is  doubtless  a  seedling,  it  has  stood  the  winter 
uninjured,  when  its  parent  has  killed  to  the  ground.  In 
its  general  appearance  it  is  not  unlike  the  Franconia  ;  but 
in  its  quality  it  is  sweeter  and  richer 

Knevefs  Giant,  a  variety  of  which  no  record  seems  to  be 
found  in  any  but  American  works,  is  of  acknowledged 
foreign  origin,  and  has,  in  years  gone  by,  proved  fine. 


SMALL    FRUITS. 


55 


NAOMI. 


56  SMALL    FRUITS. 

Belle  du  Paluan  is  another  foreigner  of  good  show. 
All  speak  its  praise,  but  from  what  we  have  known  of  it  the 
canes  are  not  hardy,  and  therefore  the  public  as  a  public, 
the  growers  all  over  the  country,  will  not  have  it. 

The  Hudson  River  Red  Antwerp,  is  so  often  written  of 
by  journals,  and  as  nearly  every  town  has  heard  of  it,  it 
is  needless  to  write,  more  than  to  say,  that  on  deep  rich 
soil,  laid  loose  and  lightly  covered  in  winter,  it  is  product- 
ive, and  one  of  the  best  in  every  respect.  Franconia  is 
an  old  variety,  large  fruit,  deep  purplish  red  and  pro- 
ductive. 

Herstine  is  one  of  recent  production,  an  abundant 
bearer  of  large  fruit. 

The  Highland  Hardy,  Brandywine  and  Turner's  Seed- 
ling are  among  a  large  lot  of  new  named  varieties.  Their 
value  must  be  learned  by  years  of  cultivation  in  varied 
locations.  Of  the  late  or  autumnal  varieties  of  foreign 
origin,  the  Belle  de  Fontenay  is  one  of  the  best,  but  has  a 
strong  tendency  to  sucker,  and  the  grower  must  destroy  a 
large  portion  of  them  in  its  cultivation. 

A  word  in  favor  of  Belle  de  Fontenay,  a  variety  that 
because  of  its  disposition  to  sucker  freely  has  been 
almost  discarded.  By  or  from  pure  contrariness,  a 
man  in  the  writer's  employ,  three  years  since,  in 
hoeing,  cut  away  in  spring  all  the  suckers ;  and  so  all 
summer,  when  hoeing,  he  would  let  but  one  or  two  grow, 
cutting  away  all  others  as  weed?.  The  result  was  a  good 
crop  of  fruit  not  only  on  the  canes  of  the  previous  year, 
but  on  those  of  the  same  season's  growth  ;  and  repeating 


SMALL    FRUITS. 


57 


the  process,  with  like  results,  up  to  the  present,  we  now 
have  fruit  on  the  young  canes  just  as  that  on  the  canes  of 
last  year's  growth.  As  a  variety  for  private  gardens,  it  is 
worthy  of  more  general  planting  than  it  has  received,  but 
all  should  remember  to  cut  away  the  suckers  freely,  as  so 
maiiy  weeds.  The  drawing  is  one  of  thirteen  clusters  on 
a  si-^m  or  cane  of  the  year's  growth. 


BELLE  DE  FONTENY. 

The  Large  Fruited  Monthly  and  Merville  de  Four  Seas- 
ons^ are  of  those  that  have  had  the  longest  test,  and 
counted  among  the  best. 

Of  the  Native  Varieties,  classed  generally  with  Purple 
Cane,  Mrs.  Wood,  and  then  as  Black  Caps,  varieties  that 
so  long  as  the  public  remain  without  education  of  the  del- 
icacy and  richness  that  belongs  to  fruit,  we  suppose  will 


5  SMALL    FRUITS. 

be  grown,  as  they  can  be  grown  profitably,  with  the  least 
knowledge  of  how  to  gather,  pack  or  ship. 

The  Doolittle  and  Davison's  Thornless  are  about  the 
same  in  time  of  ripening,  are  medium-sized  fruit  and 
.good  bearers .  The  Doolittle  is  most  profitable .  Ellisdale, 
Minnesota,  Miama,  Ohio  Ever-Bearing^  Lum's  Ever- 
£  earing.  Golden  Thornless,  Black  Cap,  Surprise,  and 
several  others,  are  no  better  than  hundreds  of  the  old 
wild  American  Black  and  White-Caps,  to  be  found  in 
fence  corners  all  over  the  country ;  and  a  man  owning 
ground  on  which  the  natives  grow,  who  should  cut  them 
away  for  the  purpose  of  planting  either  of  the  above, 
-ought  to  be  sent  to  a  lunatic  asylum  or  made  to  attend 
Horticultural  Conventions  one  year.  It  is  questionable  if 
he  got  away  from  either  with  any  improvement  of  mind 
•or  judgment. 

Philadelphia  is  too  we)1  inown  to  speak  of,  for  in  quality 
it  is  unworthy,  and  only  for  markets  near  by  will  it  an- 
swer, on  account  of  the  softness  of  the  berry,  but  for  a 
market  near  by,  and  to  supply  at  low  rates  it  is  profitable. 
Mrs.  Wood  is  equally  productive  with  Philadelphia,  and 
for  family  use  is  a  far  superior  berry.  It  is  of  a  purplish 
red  and  matures  its  crop  late.  It  is  a  larger  berry  than 
any  other  belonging  to  the  hybrid  class  of  a  cross  between 
the  common  American  Black  and  the  foreign  varieties. 

The  Miami,  McCormick  or  Mammoth  Cluster,  all  one 
and  the  same,  should  be,  with  Mrs.  Wood,  the  only  two 
of  our  natives  to  cultivate. 

Many  more  varieties  of  these  classes*  might  be  noted 


SMALL    FRUITS.  59 

but  we  count  it  wise  to  advise  the  culture  of  only  a  few  of 
the  best,  f^r  the  market,  the  farm  and  the  garden. 


BLACKBERRIES. 

The  culture  of  Blackberries  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
Raspberry,  except  they  are  of  stronger  and  longer  growth 
of  the  stem,  and  therefore  should  be  planted  at  least  six 
to  eight  feet  apart.  Rich  soil  is  a  requisite  of  success, 
and  often  after  planting  a  mulch  of  four  to  six  inches  deep 
is  better  than  hand  or  plow  culture. 

This  fruit  is  indigenous  to  this  counti/,  is  easily  grown 
from  seed,  and  our  best  known  varieties,  under  name,  have 
come  to  us  from  observation  and  the  gathering  of  wildings. 
As  long  ago  as  1845  the  writer  saw  fruit,  grown  from 
plants  obtained  from  the  woods,  that  measured  over  five 
inches  in  circumference.  Trimming  and  training  with  the 
Blackberry  differs  little  if  any  from  that  of  the  Raspberry. 

The  terms  of  Blackberry,  Dewberry  or  high  and  low 
Blackberry,  all  come  from  the  same  bramble,  and  the 
Wilson  comes  the  nearest  of  any  in  cultivation  to  the 
wild  Dewberry.  Of  the  varieties,  Kittatinny  stands  first, 
as  a  general  fruit  lor  home  use  or  market.  Dorchester  is 
a  sweeter  berry,  the  sweetest  of  all,  but  it  is  not  very 
productive.  New  Rochelle  or  Lawton,  is  a  large  berry, 
but  it  is  almost  impossible  to  gather  a  quart  of  sweet  fruit 
from  the  canes.  Wilson's  Early,  a  low  growing  sort,  is  a 
variety  that  should  be  grown,  as  its  canes  can  easily  be 
protected  in  winter.  Its  fruit  is  large  and  of  good  quality. 
Doctor  Warder^  Newman 's  T hornless  and  Duncan  fs  Falls 


•6o 


SMALL    FRUITS. 


.are  among  the  best  new  sorts  named  of  the  black  colored 
fruit.  The  Duncan's  Falle  is  after  the  habit  of  growth  of 
.New  Rochelle,  but  it  ripens  earlier,  is  productive,  with 
berries  large  and  sweet  when  gathered.  Missouri  Mam- 
moth and  Sable  Queen  coming  from  two  extremes  of  our 
.States,  viz  :  the  first  from  Missouri,  the  second  from  Mas- 
sachusetts, have  each  claims,  but  they  must  take  time  to 
rshow  which  quarter  of  the  nation  is  best. 

Colonel  Wilder  and  Crystal  White,  two  varieties  sent  out 
from  Albion,  Illinois,  have  fruit,  the  former  medium  size> 
oblong  form,  light  cream  color  ;  the  latter  has  fruit  large, 
oval  roundish,  white,  sweet  and  high  flavor.  Neither  of 
these  are  valuable  for  market. 

The  Alger,  originated  at  Cleveland,  Ohio,  is  of  good 
:size,  oblong  in  form,  of  a  deep  claret  color,  sweet  and 
.rich . 

We  group  some  berries  of  varieties. 


WILSON  S    EARLY. 


SMALL  FRUITS. 


61 


KITTATINNY. 


NEW    ROCHELLE. 


OPENING  OF  FRUIT  BLOSSOMS. 


When  watching  the  opening  of  leaf  and  blossom  of 
varieties  of  cherry,  pear  and  peach,  during  their  period 
of  returning  life  and  promise  ;  for  in  this  their  period  of 
spring  bloom  we  think  there  is  not  a  little  yet  to  sway  us 
in  our  judgment  of  their  value  as  adapted  to  localities. 

Rostiezer  pears  were  in  full  bloom  before  Tyson  had 
burst  the  leaf  shell ;  Dutchess  was  in  full  bloom  before 
Beurre  d'Anjou  had  more  than  just  opened.  Hale's 
Early  peach  was  the  first  to  open,  except  one  or  two  seed- 
lings, which  are  of  no  value  in  fruit ,  Crawford 's  Early 
came  next,  then  Sturtevant  and  Red  Cheek  Melocoton, 
and  then  Old  Mixon  Free. 

Among  cherries,  one  of  the  very  latest  ripening  sorts 
was  the  first  to  open  its  blossoms,  while  Early  Purple 
Guigne  came  with  Black  Tartarian,  and  then  followed 
Red  Jacket,  which  is  one  of  the  late  ripening  sorts.  Belle 
Magnifique  opened  before  Arch  Duke  or  Late  Duke,  and 
full  a  week  before  Reine  Hortense  or  the  common  Morello , 
Early  Richmond  and  Kirtland  opened  just  after  Late 
Duke,  and  Louis  Phillip  came  in  two  days  thereafter. 

These  notes  are  made  from  numerous  varieties  noted, 
and  if  others  count  the  point  anything,  we  hope  they  will 
communicate  or  publish  their  observations. 


PROFUSION    OF    ELOOMS,    ETC.  63 

Without  presuming  that  the  blooming  period  of  straw- 
berries has  aught  to  do  with  the  period  at  which  they  ripen 
their  fruit,  as  it  is  well  known  some  mature  quickly  after 
blooming,  while  others  occupy  a  greater  length  of  time, 
yet  as  we  went  among  our  strawberry  beds,  we  could  but 
note  that  of  Wilson,  Downer  and  Nicanor  quite  a  show  of 
flowers  appeared.  Large  Early  Scarlet,  Green  Prolific, 
La  Constante,  Triomphe  de  Gand,  Jucunda,  arid  Lady 
Finger  had  each  a  few,  while  Ida,  Hovey,  Lucas,  Napo- 
leon III,  Agriculturist,  Kramer,  Bishop,  French's  Seedling, 
King  Arthur,  and  many  more,  had  scarce  a  bloom  open. 


PROFUSION  OF  BLOOMS, 

AND    WHAT    TO    DO,    ETC. 


Years  ago  we  wrote  as  follows,  but  deem  it  to-day  ap- 
plicable, and  so  quote  one  of  our  old  articles  : — The  pro- 
fusion of  bloom  on  my  dwarf  pears  admonishes  me  of 
what  must  be  required  of  the  roots  to  enable  them  to  set 
and  hold  their  fruit.  v  I  know  they  will  set  ;  but  soon  after 
that,  unless  the  roots  are  all  vigorous  and  supply  food 
in  abundance,  more  or  less,  and  perhaps  all,  will  drop; 
:so  now  is  my  time  to  go  among  them  and  clip  away. 
I  know  it  seems  bad  at  first  view,  but  all  horticultur- 
ists must  remember  that  it  takes  time  to  mature  fruit  or 
flower  ;  such  creations  are  not  like  mechanics,  the  work 
of  hands,  and  controlled  by  man  at  will,  but  must  be  con- 
trolled by  the  laws  of  nature  while  guided  by  the  hand  of 
So  let  us  cut  away  as  soon  as  the  flower  opens,  if 


64  PROFUSION    OF    BLOOMS.    ETC. 

we  can,  but  any  way  as  soon  as  the  truit  sets,  and  so  de- 
liver the  tree  of  its  over-burden,  and  save  to  ourselves  a 
fair  crop  of  fine  fruit. 

Now  is  my  time  too,  I  think,  to  sow  my  plaster,  and  I 
shall  take  my  early  morning  time,  when  the  dew  is  heavy, 
and  sow  from  half  a  pint  to  a  pint  over  each  tree,  for  as 
it  falls  on  the  foliage  and  flower  it  will  hold  and  assimilate 
the  ammonia,  making  apparent  its  good  effects  for  several 
weeks  to  come. 

Yesterday  was  half  rainy,  and,  looking  over  my  record, 
or  map,  of  the  trees,  etc.,  on  my  place,  it  occurred  to  me 
that  some  had  died  and  been  replaced,  with  varieties  of 
another  sort.  So  I  went  over  my  ground  in  the  interven- 
ing of  showers,  took  down  names,  and  then,  in  the  house, 
recorded  them  in  my  book.  I  have  found  the  best  way  of 
labeling  trees  or  vines  for  permanent  orchard  or  vineyard, 
is  to  make  a  little  map  of  the  grounds,  and  then  designate 
row,  number,  and  position  in  row,  of  each  kind,  in  a  book. 
The  loss  of  labels  attached  to  each  tree  or  vine  is  then  of 
little  account,  as  a  reference  to  the  book  enables  me  to 
correct  or  supply  the  name  without  error.  It  also  enables 
me  to  say  of  a  surety  from  whom  I  received  the  plant, 
because  at  the  end  of  each  name  of  the  variety,  I  add  the 
initials  or  name  of  the  person,  or  persons,  from  whom  re- 
ceived ;  and  so,  if  the  variety  prove  incorrect.  I  know 
whom  to  blame. 


VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

In  the  preparation  of  this  work  no  attempt  at  strictly 
pomological  description  of  any  variety  is  offered.  The 
object  being  to  make  plain ;  after  instructions  how  to 
plant,  bud,  graft,  etc.;  the  varieties  that  it  is  most  politic 
to  obtain  and  cultivate. 

A  selection  has  been  carefully  made,  for  sections  ac- 
cording to  latitude  of  climate,  and  a  table  made  giving  the 
true  name  of  the  variety,  and  its  size,  form,  color,  quality, 
use  and  season,  following  the  terms  of  the  American  Po- 
mological Society.  The  period  of  ripening  cannot  be 
given  in  a  simple  table,  because  of  the  varied  climate  in 
which  the  fruit  may  be  grown.  A  few  varieties  are  suited 
to  all  our  climates,  but  the  period  of  maturing  varies. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  give  a  list  of  the  2700  varieties  of 
apples,  or  more,  as  well  as  that  of  pears,  whose  numbers 
are  nearly  the  same,  as  it  would  be  for  a  fruit  grower  to 
grow  them  all  and  expect  profit.  The  cherries,  plums, 
peaches,  grapes,  etc.,  number  about  one-third  each  of  ap- 
ples and  pears,  and  yearly  of  all  fruits  new  varieties  are 
introduced. 

The  writer  has  had  forty  years  of  knowledge  in  the 
study  of  fruits  and  their  culture,  over  a  large  territory, 
and  the  making  of  the  selection  of  a  few,  which  in  truth 


60  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

is  best  for  the  grower,  has  given  him  many  hours  of 
thought.  It  is  not  presumed  that  the  lists  given  will  meet 
every  man's  ideas,  but  it  is  assumed  that  the  varieties 
named  are  among  the  best  and  the  longest  tested  as  to 
hardihood  and  productive  value,  and  therefore  best  for 
him  who  wants  to  plant  for  profit  or  his  own  use.  The 
amateur  can  expend  money  and  time  perhaps  to  good  ad- 
vantage for  his  own  knowledge,  and  that  of  others,  if  he 
has  the  courtesy  to  publish  what  he  has  learned.  The 
leading  nurserymen  are  alive  to  the  subject  matter,  and 
ready  to  supply  buds,  grafts  or  small  trees  of  sorts  new, 
and  sent  out  as  exceedingly  valuable. 


THE  APPLE. 

We  count  the  Apple  as  the  King  of  fruits,  because  it  is 
more  generally  known  and  used  than  any  other.  Apples 
are  considered  more  nutricious  than  potatoes,  indeed, 
many  go  so  far  as  to  think  that  they  contain  more  brain 
£ooji  than  any  other  fruit  or  vegetable.  However  that 
may  be,  they  certainly  exert  a  healthful  influence  upon  the 
whole  system  when  eaten  raw  or  cooked  in  the  most  sim- 
ple manner.  When  compounded  with  butter,  eggs  and 
flour,  they  are  far  less  wholesome  than  when  baked  or 
steamed.  Apples  nicely  baked  and  served  with  cream 
are  a  delicious  dish,  and  an  ingenious  housekeeper  can 
easily  devise  numerous  ways  of  preparing  them  for  the 
table.  Many  methods  have  been  suggested  for  keeping 
apples  in  a  good  condition  through  the  winter.  One  is  to 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  67 

wrap  each  apple — as  oranges  and  lemons  are  wrapped  for 
importation — in  paper  ;  old  newspapers  will  answer.  Pa- 
per is  not  only  impervious  to  air,  but  serves  to  keep  the 
fruit  at  a  uniform  temperature.  Another  method  of  pre- 
serving apples  is  to  put  some  dry,  fine  sand  into  each  bar- 
rel and  shake  it  down  very  gently ;  powdered  plaster  is 
sometimes  used  instead  of  sand.  Another  way  is  to  pit 
the  apples  in  a  dry  sandy  soil.  A  hole  three  or  four  feet 
deep  should  be  dug,  the  fruit  put  in  upon  dry  straw  and 
covered  with  a  layer  of  straw  and  dry  earth.  The  earth 
should  be  raised  above  the  general  level  of  the  ground,  so 
as  to  shed  rain.  When  thus  protected,  the  apples  are 
said  to  keep  well  until  spring. 

With  the  rapidly  increasing  settlement  of  our  North- 
western States  and  Territories,  and  the  universal  desire  of 
an  intelligent  people  to  cultivate  fruit,  the  subject  of  va- 
rieties adapted  to  the  climate  becomes  yearly  more  and 
more  important.  Although  it  has  been  somewhat  exten- 
sively discussed,  the  vital  point,  even  at  this  time,  is  com- 
paratively but  little  understood.  That  the  apple,  in  some 
of  its  varieties,  can  be  grown  wherever  a  crop  of  corn  can 
be  ripened,  is  beyond  doubt ;  yet  the  selection  of  varie- 
ties, to  command  success,  has  thus  far  been  an  item  of 
costly  experiment,  and  to-day  is  but  imperfectly  known. 
But  one  single  variety,  belonging  to  the  class  designated 
by  botanists  as  Pyrus  malus,  named  and  described  in  the 
books  as  the  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh,  has  fully  stood  the 
test  uninjured  in  all  locations.  Many  others  prove  com- 
paratively hardy  ;  and,  as  both  variety  as  well  as  period 
of  maturity  are  required,  the  planter  has  necessarily  had 


68  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

to  assume  a  risk  in  selection,  which,  in  some  cases,  has 
been  well  rewarded,  while  in  many  others  it  has  failed. 
The  record  of  one  dealer  is,  that  "  out  of  one  hundred 
thousand  apple  trees,  comprising  varieties  such  as  North- 
ern Spy,  Fall  Pippin,  etc.,  sold  by  him  and  planted  in 
Minnesota,  not  one  hundred  remained  at  the  expiration 
of  ten  years." 

It  may  be  this  is  an  extreme  case ;  but  certainly  the 
failures  have  been  more  numerous  than  the  successes,  un- 
til many  have  said  our  Northwestern  States  were  not 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  any  but  the  small  fruits,  such  as 
currants,  gooseberries,  etc.,  etc.  Enthusiasm,  careful 
observation  and  perseverance,  however,  in  this,  as  in  all 
pursuits,  is  destined  to  secure  success ;  and  to  this  end 
we  find  the  fruit  growers,  both  professional  and  amateur, 
of  the  Northwest  have,  during  the  past  few  years,  devo- 
ted themselves  so  assiduously  that  the  exhibition  tables  of 
Horticultural  Societies  have  this  past  season  been  sup- 
plied with  a  new  class  of  apples,  which,  while  they  have 
not  the  size  of  a  large  proportion  of  old  named  varieties 
of  the  Pyrus  mains,  possess  richness  of  flesh  and  eatable 
quality  almost,  if  not  quite,  equaling  them  ;  and  from 
their  botanical  character  in  tree — the  Pyrus  baccata — a 
hardihood  that  insures  success  to  the  planter. 

With  the  apple,  therefore  we  commence  our  table  list  of 
the  varieties  we  advise  mainly  to  plant.  As  before  said, 
there  are  numerous  varieties  which  can  be  obtained,  but 
many  of  them  have  only  a  local  reputation  of  experience 
touching  their  value. 

The  abbreviations  in  the  following  table  of  apples,  are 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  69 

to  be  understood  following  the  columns,  say  of  Size :  1., 
for  large;  m.,  medium  ;  s.,  small.  The  Form,  r.  c.,for 
roundish  conical;  ob.,  oblong;  r.  ob.,  roundish  oblate; 
r.,  roundish.  The  Color,  y.  r.,  for  yellow  and  red  ;  r.  s., 
for  red  striped  ;  g.  y.,  for  greenish  yellow  ;  rus.,  for  rus- 
setted  ;  y.  rus.,  for  yellow  and  russet.  The  Quality,  g.4 
good  ;  v.  g.,  very  good  ;  b.,  best.  Use,  f.,  fruit  valuable 
for  all  family  purposes;  k.  m.,  valuable  for  kitchen  or 
market;  f.  m.,  family  or  market.  Season,  s.,  summer; 
e.  a.,  early  autumn  ;  1.  a.,  late  autumn;  w.,  winter  ;  Ori- 
gin, Rus.,  for  Russian ;  En.  for  English  ;  Am.,,  for  Ameri- 
can ;  Ger.,  for  German  ;  F.,  for  Foreign. 

All  these  characters,  of  course,  only  designate  leading, 
positive  features,  and  vary  in  their  distinctness  according 
to  soil  and  climate  in  which  they  are  grown. 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  73 

VARIETIES    SUITED    TO   LATITUDES. 

Having  now  given  a  table  of  a  select  list  of  varieties  of 
the  Apple,  we  will  here  designate  those  which  we  count 
most  valuable  for  the  range  of  climate.  The  periods  of 
ripening  are  given  in  the  foregoing  table,  as  near  as  can 
be  computed,  over  the  whole  territory  of  the  United  States. 

LIST    FOR    THE    LATITUDE    ABOVE    43. 

Varieties:  Gravenstein,  Duchess  of  Oldenburgh,  Te- 
tofsky,  Red  Astrachan,  Hawthornden,  are  varieties  of  for- 
eign origin,  but  trees  hardy  and  productive.  Bentley's 
Sweet,  American  Golden  Russet,  Porter,  Fameuse,  Jona- 
than, Winesap,  Benoni,  Ohio  Nonpariel,  Pome  Gris,  Red 
Canada,  Lady  Apple,  Maiden's  Blush,  Bethlehemite,  Kes- 
wick  Codlin,  Wealthy,  Gilpin,  Ribston  Pippin,  Mother, 
Lowell,  Early  Strawberry,  Peck's  Pleasant,  St.  Lawrence, 
Tewksbury,  Winter  Blush,  are  varieties  of  reputed  hardi- 
hood, and  productive.  Lady  Crab,  Marengo,  Hyslop, 
Coral,  Chicago,  Chase's  Winter  Sweet,  Cherry,  Hutchin- 
son's  Winter  Sweet,  White  Winter,  Transcendant,  Pow- 
ers' Large,  are  of  the  Crab-apple  class,  and  all  regarded 
as  of  value,  where  others  fail.  The  above  line  of  latitude 
ranges  all  above  the  vicinity  of  Boston,  Mass.,  striking 
above  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  and  Lansing  in  Michigan,  and  so  on 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  with  varying  ideas  of  that  broad 
shore. 

We  present  herewith  a  few  illustrations  of  what  are 
called  Crab-apples,  believing  them  to  be  of  value  where 
trees  of  a  more  delicate  nature  cannot  be  grown. 


74 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


MARENGO. 


TRANSCEND  ANT. 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  75 

LIST    OF    LATITUDES    FROM    43    DOWN    TO    40. 

This  line  includes  Boston,  Mass.,  and  reaches  down  on 
the  Atlantic  to  Burlington  and  Trenton,  in  New  Jersey, 
to  Philadelphia  and  Wheeling,  in  Pennsylvania  and  West 
Virginia,  ranging  fifty  miles  or  more  above  Columbus  in 
Ohio,  about  the  same  above  Indianapolis,  Indiana,  strik- 
ing near  Springfield,  Illinois,  and  somewhat  above  St.  Jo- 
seph, in  Iowa,  Lincoln  or  Nebraska  City  in  Nebraska, 
and  so  on  to  Salt  Lake  City. 

Varieties:  American  Summer  Pearmain,  Benoni,  Red 
Astrachan,  Early  Strawberry,  Williams'  Favorite,  Summer 
Rose,  Ohio  Nonpariel,  Maiden's  Blush,  Large  Sweet 
Bough,  Golden  Sweeting,  Keswick  Codlin,  Gravenstein, 
Lowell,  Porter,  Jefferies,  Fameuse,  Duchess  of  Olden- 
burgh,  Jersey  Sweet,  Bethlehemite,  Baltimore,  Broadwell, 
Bentley's  Sweet,  Evening  Party,  Winesap,  Baldwin,  Cogs- 
well, Wagner,  Westfield  Seeknofarther,  Hubbardston, 
Nonesuch,  Fall  Pippin,  Rhode  Island  Greening,  Swaar, 
Mother,  Lady's  Sweet,  Lady  Apple,  Jonathan,  Red  Can- 
ada, Smith's  Cider,  Northern  Spy,  Wealthy. 

LIST    FOR    LATITUDES    FROM    40    DOWN    TO    37. 

This  takes  in  Maryland,  most  of  West  Virginia  and  Vir- 
ginia, North  Carolina,  Southern  Ohio,  Southern  Illinois, 
Southern  Indiana,  somewhat  of  Iowa,  most  of  Missouri, 
some  of  Kansas  and  Kentucky. 

We  feel  compelled  to  select  list  for  the  latitude  of  40  to 
37,  to  twenty  varieties,  as  follows  : 

Carolina  Red  June,  American  Summer  Pearmain,  Red 
Astrachan,  Summer  Rose,  Maiden's  Blush,  Smith's 


76  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Cider,  Ben  Davis,  Buckingham,  Winesap,  American 
Golden  Russet,  McAfee's  Nonesuch,  Pryor's  Red, 
Shockley,  Rawles'  Ganet,  Hewes'  Virginia  Crab,  Willow 
Twig,  Yellow  Newtown  Pippin,  Nickajack,  Gilpin, 
Green  Cheese. 

THE    LATITUDE    BELOW    37. 

It  is  reckless  and  useless  to  make  any  list  of  apples  to 
be  grown  in  this  region  of  our  United  States  territory. 
Evidently,  from  what  we  read,  the  growers  themselves 
know  not  of  what  they  grow  or  its  value. 

Editors  and  critics  who  doubt  this  statement,  may  turn 
and  take  from  the  best  records  of  the  American  Pomologi- 
cal  Society's  Transactions,  and  learn  what  the  fruit  grow- 
ers of  the  grand  South  know  relative  to  the  value  of  ap- 
ples in  their  region.  It  has  been  the  unfortunate  lot  of 
the  writer,  ever  to  have  met  one  from  the  extreme  South 
who  could  give  favorable  record  of  any  one  variety  of  the 
apple. 

PEARS. 

The  Pear  is  said  to  be  the  Prince  of  fruits,  because  of 
its  delicacy,  juiciness  and  rich  melting  flesh.  In  this 
work,  written  for  the  plain  public,  we  have  classed  the 
apple  as  King. 

Our  selection  of  varieties,  will  by  many  be  ignored, 
yet  we  feel  that  when  we  name  a  variety  to  be  grown,  we 
do  so  knowingly  of  its  past-time  value,  and  hence  the 
probability  of  its  future.  Willing  to  give  credit  to  those 
who  have  aided  in  the  introduction  and  culture  of  this 
valuable  fruit,  we  must  say  that  there  is  in  it  a  feature  of 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  77 

decay  called  "blight,"  that  appears  all  unknown.  The 
most  intelligent  of  horticulturist  apparently  Imve  no  ex- 
plicit idea  of  what  the  blight  is,  or  how  it  may  be  checked. 

Various  remedies  for  the  blight  have  been  recommended, 
but  no  one  proves  a  specific.  A  healthy  growth  of  the 
tree,  in  a  soil  moist  yet  dry,  i.  e.,  void  of  stagnant  water 
at  the  base  of  the  roots,  is  about  the  only  preventive. 

As,  with  the  apple,  the  selection  of  varieties  has  been 
made  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  public  rather  than  minis- 
tering to  the  fancy  of  amateurs.  So,  also,  has  our  list 
been  classed  as  to  latitude,  fully  designated  as  to  bound- 
aries under  head  of  the  apple. 

In  the  list  of  size,  color,  form,  etc.,  we  here  also  copy 
from  the  American  Pomological  Society's  Catalogue,  as 
follows  : 

The  columns  explain.  Size — s.  small  ;  1.  large  ;  m.  me- 
dium, Flower — p.  pyriform ;  r.  o.  p.  roundish,  obtuse 
pyriform  ;  r.  a.  p.  roundish,  acute  pyriform  ;  ob.  p.  obtuse 
pyriform;  r.  roundish  ;  r.  ob.  roundish  obtuse.  Color — 
y.  g.  yellow  or  yellowish  green,  with  a  red  or  russet-red 
cheek  ;  y.  r.  yellow  and  russet ;  y.  when  mostly  yellow  or 
yellowish.  Quality — g.  good  ;  v.  g.  very  good;  b.  best. 
Use — f.  valuable  family  desert;  k.  m.  kitchen  and  mar- 
ket ;  f.  m.  family  and  market.  Season — s.  summer  ;  1.  s. 
late  summer  ;  a.  autumn  ;  e.  a.  early  autumn  ;.  1.  a.  late 
autumn;  w.  winter.  Origin — En.  English;  Am.  Amer- 
ican ;  F.  French  ;  Fl.  Flemish  ;  B.  Belgium  ;  H.  Holland. 

With  apples,  our  list  ranges  ten  to  forty  ;  with  pears  we 
reduce  and  make  it  ten  to  thirty.  Our  list  of  the  best  is 
as  follows  : 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS 


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-oO  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

LIST    OF    TEN    TO    THIRTY    VARIETIES, 

Valuable  north  of  43  degrees  of  latitude  for  our  range. 
For  the  period  of  ripening,  etc.,  see  table  : 

Abbot,  Ananas  d'Ete,  Bartlett,  Belle  Lucrative,  Beurre 
Bosc,  Beurre  d'Anjou,  Beurre  Diel,  Beurre  Giffard,  Beurre 
Superfin,  Bloodgood,  Brandy  wine,  Buffum,  Clapp's  Favor- 
ite, Fulton,  Dearborn's  Seedling,  Flemish  Beauty,  Doctor 
Reeder,  Howell,  Kirtland,  Lawrence,  Louise  Bonne  de 
Jersey,  Onondaga,  Tyson,  Seckel,  Winter  Nelis,  Mc- 
Laughlin,  Beurre  Coit,  Souvenier  de  Congress,  Goodale, 
Doyenne  Boussock. 


DOCTOR    REEDER     PEAR. 

This  exceedingly  valuable  new  pear  originated  with  Dr. 
HENRY  REEDER,  Varick,  Seneca  county,  N.  Y.,  from 
seed  of  a  Winter  Nelis  pear,  the  tree  of  which  grew  near 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  ol 

a  Seckel.  The  fruit  in  form  resembles  the  Seckel,  while, 
with  the  rich,  honied  sweetness  of  that  variety,  it  has  also 
the  juicy,  sprightly  vivacity  of  the  Winter  Nelis.  The 
original  tree  is  about  twelve  years  old,  and  as  yet  has  been 
but  little  disseminated.  We  are  indebted  to  Messrs.  ELL- 
WANGER  &  BARRY  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  for  specimens 
from  which  we  have  made  the  accompanying  drawing  and 
description.  The  variety  is  generally  known  under  the 
name  of  Dr.  Reeder's  Seedling,  by  which  it  was  noticed 
first  in  American  Pomological  Society's  Transactions  by 
CHARLES  DOWNING. 

Fruit  small  in  size,  globular,  obtuse  pyriform,  pale  yel- 
low, mostly  overspread  with  a  smooth,  warm,  cinnamon 
russet, — stem  slender,  nearly  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long, 
set  in  a  broad,  open,  moderately  deep  cavity,  having  oc- 
casionally a  slight  lip  on  one  side;  calyx  open,  large  for 
size  of  fruit,  with  erect,  divided,  rounded  segments  ;  basin 
shallow,  broad,  smooth  and  open  ;  flesh  yellowish  white, 
fine  grained,  juicy,  melting,  almost  buttery,  sprightly, 
sweet,  and  slightly  aromatic  ;  best  in  quality  ;  core  medi- 
um ;  seeds  blackish  ;  season  early  November. 

The  list  for  latitude  43  down  to  40,  we  advise  the  fol- 
lowing: 

Bartlett,  Belle  Lucrative,  Beurre  Bosc,  Beurre  Clair- 
geau,  Beurre  d'Anjou,  Doyenne  de  Cornice,  Beurre  Gif- 
fard,  Beurre  Superfine,  Brandy  wine,  Marechal  de  la  Cour, 
Clapp's  Favorite,  Doyenne  Boussock,  Doyenne  d'Ete, 
Duchess  d'Angouleme,  Flemish  Beauty,  Glout  Morceau, 
Howell,  Josephine  de  Malines,  Kirtland,  Louise  bon  de 
Jersey,  Lawrence,  Onondaga,  Rostiezer, White  Doyenne, 


82  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

Seckel,  Sheldon,  Tyson,  Stevens'  Genesee, Vicar  of  Wake- 
field,  Winter  Nelis. 

From  latitude  40  down  to  37,  we  offer  the  following  as 
the  best  list: 

Ananas  d'Ete,  Bartlett,  Belle  Lucrative,  Beurre  Boscy 
Beurre  Clairgeau,  Beurre  d'Anjou,  Beurre  Giffard,  Beurre 
Langlier,  Beurre  Superfine,  Clapp's  Favorite,  Dana's 
Hovey,  Dearborn's  Seedling,  Doyenne  de  Cornice,  Mare- 
chal  de  la  Cour,  Emile  de  Heyst,  Beurre  Easter,  Glout 
Morceau,  Duchess  d'Angouleme,  Doctor  Reeder,  Jose- 
phine de  Malines,  Lawrence,  Louise  Bonne  de  Jersey, 
Mount  Vernon,  Onondaga,  Rostiezer,  Princes  St.  Ger- 
main, Tyson,  and  Winter  Nelis. 

From  latitude  37  and  below  the  following  have  repute: 

Bartlett,  Belle  Lucrative,  Beurre  Clairgeau,  Beurre  d* 
Anjou,  Beurre  Superfine,  Bloodgood,  Buffum,  Brandy- 
wine,  Doyenne  d'Ete,  Beurre  Easter,  Duchess  d'Angou- 
leme, Howell,  Lawrence,  Onondaga,  Kirtland,  Seckelr 
Doctor  Reeder,  Beurre  Bosc,  Beurre  Giffard,  Flemish 
Beauty,  Rostiezer,  St.  Michael  Archangel,  Tyson,  Winter 
Nelis,  Madelaine,  Dearborn's  Seedling,  Jaminette,  Jose- 
phine de  Molines,  St.  Ghislain. 


THE  CHERRY. 

This  fruit  has  its  special  localities,  perhaps  more  than 
any  other ;  and  while  at  the  extreme  north  some  varieties 
succeed,  most  of  the  sweet  varieties  fail.  From  latitude 
43  down  to  40  we  may  count  as  the  region  for  the  profit- 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  83 

able  growing  of  good,  rich,  sweet  cherries.  Below  the 
latitude  of  40,  say  to  37,  some  varieties  succeed,  and  it  is 
well  to  keep  planting.  The  same  varieties  named  in  our 
remarks  hereafter  as  best,  for  from  40  to  37,  are  equally 
good  for  the  lower  and  warmer  latitudes.  Although  the 
Cherry  numbers  less  of  varieties  than  the  Apple  or  Pear, 
the  selection  of  those  suited  to  various  sections  is  one  re- 
quiring careful  thought" and  knowledge.  We  have  made 
our  list  to  run  from  10  to  20  varieties  for  latitude.  Our 
table  of  terms,  as  to  size,  form,  etc.,  is  made  from  the 
American  Pomological  Society's  Catalogue,  for  we  have 
full  confidence  in  that  Association,  made  up  of  the  best 
pomological  intelligence  of  the  world. 

Size — 1,  large;  m,  medium;  s,  small.  Form  —  ob  h, 
obtuse,  heart  shape;  r,  ob,  h,  roundish,  obtuse,  heart 
shape;  r,  h,  roundish,  heart  shape,  roundish  or  round. 
Color  —  1,  r,  lively  bright  red;  d,  r,  dark  red,  almost 
black ;  a,  m,  amber  mottled  with  red  ;  y,  r,  yellow  ground 
shaded  and  mottled  with  red.  Class — H,  Hearts,  or  ten- 
der fleshed  sweet  cherries;  B,  Bigarreau,  or  firm  fleshed; 
D,  Dukes,  having  a  character  in  tree  and  fruit  midway 
between  the  Hearts  and  Morellos ;  M,  Morello,  having 
acid  fruit,  and  the  tree  of  small  growth.  Use — f,  family, 
for  dessert ;  f  m,  family  or  market ;  k  m,  cooking  or  mar- 
ket;  m,  market.  Season  —  e,  early;  m,  medium,  1,  late. 
Origin  —  f,  foreign;  a,  American. 


84 


ARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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86  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

LIST    OF    VARIETIES    FOR    LATITUDES. 

The  range  of  latitude  our  readers  will  please  refer  to  the 
apple . 

SELECTIONS    FOR    LATITUDES    ABOVE    43. 

Arch  Duke,  Belle  de  Choisy,  Belle  Magnifique,  Carna- 
tion, Dauphine,  Donna  Maria,  Early  May,  Flemish,  Im- 
peratrice  Eugenie,  Imperial  Morello,  Jeffreys 'Duke,  Kent- 
ish or  Early  Richmond,  Kirtland's  Morello,  Louis  Phil- 
ippe, May  Duke,  Morello  English,  Plumstone  Morello, 
Reine  Hortense,  Royal  Duke,  Vail's  August  Duke. 

SELECTIONS    FROM    43    DOWN    TO    40. 

Arch  Duke,  Belle  de  Choisy,  Belle  of  Orleans,  Black 
Tartarian,  Black  Hawk,  Coe's  Transparent,  Caroline,  Da- 
cota, Early  Prolific,  Early  Purple  Guigne,  Elton,  Governor 
Wood,  Kennicott,  Kentish  or  Early  Richmond,  Louis  Phil- 
ippe, Ohio  Beauty,  Pontiac,  Powhatan,  Rockport,  Red 
Jacket. 

SELECTION    OF    LATITUDE    40    DOWN    TO    37. 

Arch  Duke,  Belle  Magnifique,  Belle  de  Choisy,  Carna- 
tion, Donna  Maria,  Kentish  or  Early  Richmond  (all  one 
and  the  same),  Downer's  Late,  Dacota,  Flemish,  Gridley, 
Late  Duke,  Louis  Philippe,  May  Duke,  Morello  English, 
Nouvelle  Royale,  Powhatan,  Reine  Hortense,  Red  Jacket, 
Sparhawk's  Honey. 

The  above  list  is  as  valuable  for  all  latitudes  below  37 
degrees  as  can  be  made  under  the  present  record  of  in- 
telligence. 

We  give  here  illustrations  of  Ohio  Beauty,  Fig.  i,  and 
Donna  Maria,  Fi?.  ?. 


VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 


FIG.  i 


FIG.  2, 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


APRICOTS  AND  NECTARINES. 

Of  these  only  a  few  can  be  grown  by  the  multitude  of 
the  people.  Too  much  care  in  the  pruning  is  requisite, 
and  also  it  is  requisite  that  an  exposure  of  heat  and  sun 
light  be  given  the  tree. 

The  Apricot  is  beautiful  in  its  growth,  and  especially 
when  it  is  in  bloom.  It  should  be  worked  upon  the  Plum, 
and  the  growth  yearly  kept  shortened  by  pinching  off  the 
ends  of  strong  shoots  and  rubbing  away  the  feeble  buds. 
We  make  no  table  for  these  two  varieties  of  fruits,  viz., 
Apricots  and  Nectarines,  for  the  reason  that  above  42  of 
latitude  it  is  unwise  to  attempt  to  grow  them. 

We  name  but  few,  but  those  we  do  name  are  of  the 
hardiest  in  tree  and  best  in  quality. 

Breda  —  is  small,  said  to  originate  in  Africa.  The  tree 
is  one  of  the  hardiest.  The  fruit,  roundish  in  form,  a 
dark  orange  in  color,  with  flesh  orange  colored,  rich  and 
high  flavored. 

Hemskirke — is  one  of  the  largest  and  best.  Orange 
color,  with  a  red  cheek  ;  flesh  bright  orange  color;  juicy, 
rich  and  lucious  flavor. 

Large  Early  —  This  comes  to  us  from  France.  The 
tree  is  vigorous  and  it  is  early  in  ripening.  Fruit  of  me- 
dium size,  pale  orange,  with  blotches  of  red  in  the  sun; 
flesh,  orange  colored,  separating  readily  from  the  stone, 
rich  and  iuicy. 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  89 

Moorpark — Has  a  great  reputation.     It  is  large  when 
grown  with  care,  but  not  productive.     Orange  color. 

Roman  —  One  of  the  hardiest  bf  trees.     Fruit  of  middle 
size,  pale  yellow  ;  flesh  soft,  but  rather  dry. 


THE  NECTARINE. 

With  this  we  shall  deal  less  in  number  than  with  the 
apricot.  Unfortunately  the  curculio  is  the  destroyer  of 
these  as  well  as  of  the  plum,  and  few  care  to  fight  against 
it.  To  grow  it  successfully  even  more  attention  and  care 
is  requisite  than  with  the  Apricot  or  Plum. 

Early  Newington  —  is  a  clingstone.  Fruit  large,  round- 
ish ovate;  color,  a  green  ground  nearly  covered  with  red 
of  mottled  and  marbled  shades.  The  flesh  is  of  a  greenish 
white,  deep  red  at  the  stone  ;  juicy,  sugary,  and  excellent. 

Elruge —  Esteemed  as  one  of  the  best.  It  is  of  English 
origin,  and  when  correctly  trained  by  pinching  of  the  shoots 
it  is  one  of  the  most  productive.  Unless  this  is  done  no 
grower  need  to  expect  to  furnish  good  nectarines. 

Violette  Native  —  This  variety,  with  fifteen  or  more  syn- 
onyms, has  been  everywhere  grown,  and  to-day  has  the 
highest  rank  in  its  class.  It  is  of  delicious  flavor,  hardy 
and  productive.  It  is  of  French  origin,  and  has  fruit 
rather  large,  narrowed  at  the  top.  Color •,  pale  yellowish 
green,  with  marbled  red  in  open  sun.  Flesh,  whitish,  but 
much  rayed  with  red  at  the  stone;  melting,  juicy,  rich, 
and  high  flavored. 


90  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


THE   PEACH. 

The  Peach  is  a  native  of  Persia  and  China.  It  was 
brought  into  this  country  somewhere  about  1680.  Its 
success  here  has  been  to  make  it  the  Queen  of  fruits. 

A  selection  of  varieties  to  the  various  latitudes  is  a  dif- 
ficult matter,  yet  we  shall  try  to  do  it. 

Above  43  it  cannot  be  grown  in  the  open  air. 

The  list  of  new  varieties  is  yearly  on  the  increase,  and 
some  prove  of  value.  The  greater  number,  however,  fail 
to  meet  expectations. 

The  following  remarks  of  J.  J.  THOMAS,  one  of  our  most 
intelligent  horticulturists,  in  a  report  to  the  American  Pom* 
ological  Society,  deserve  thought  and  attention  of  every 
fruit  grower: 

' '  During  the  early  period  of  fruit  culture  in  this  country, 
a  long  list  of  varieties  was  regarded  as  a  special  merit  in 
any  collection,  and  the  nurseryman  who  could  present  the 
largest  catalogue  stood  at  the  head  of  his  profession.  This 
led  to  the  cultivation  of  many  sorts  of  little  value,  and  it 
became  an  object  of  importance  to  separate  the  valuable 
from  the  worthless.  *  *  *  A  great  change  has  taken 
place  of  later  years,  and  collections  of  fruits  for  profit,  as 
well  as  for  home  use,  have  been  reduced  to  a  few  select 
sorts,  the  amateur  and  student  of  pomology  only  desiring 
a  wider  range.  *  *  *  The  lists  which  are  now  wanted 
are  of  such  sorts  as  the  cultivators  may  plant  for  use." 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  pi 

The  variation  of  our  climate  and  soils,  makes  this  selec- 
tion of  a  few  out  of  the  hundreds  one  of  the  difficult 
tasks.  In  this  little  work  we  have  attempted  it,  but  with- 
out doubt  we  have  omitted  many  varieties  that  are  of 
value  in  their  special  localities ,  but  while  we  have  tried 
to  confine  our  range  to  climate  rather  than  to  soil,  we  have 
also  in  our  chapter  on  soils  and  locations  endeavored  to 
briefly  state  the  subject.  The  rules  of  time  and  how  to 
prune  have  also  changed,  and  while  our  chapter  on  pruning 
may  not  meet  the  views  of  many  growers,  yet  we  have 
written  what  practise  and  observation  have  taught  us. 
Authors  disagree,  and  synonyms  of  varieties  abound. 

We  shall  make  our  table  descriptive  of  form,  size,  etc., 
as  before,  in  one,  and  then  name  the  varieties  suited,  as 
we  judge  best,  for  the  range  of  country  our  latitude  lines 
state.  The  columns  explain  as  follows  : 

Size — 1,  large  ;  m,  medium  ;  s,  small.  Class — f,  free- 
stone ;  c,  clingstone.  Color  ^  relative  to  the  flesh  —  w,  white 
or  pale  colored  ;  y,  yellow  or  yellowish  ;  g,  greenish  white, 
red  at  stone.  Quality  —  j  v,  juicy,  vinous;  m  j  r,  melt- 
ing, juicy,  rich;  s  j,  sweet,  juicy  Glands  —  s,  serrated, 
without  glands  ;  g,  glands  globose  ;  r,  glands  reniform. 
Season  —  In  forming  this  table  we  have  endeavored  to 
follow  the  American  Pomological  Society's  catalogue,  but 
find  that  there  the  terms  of  period  of  ripening  take  43  de- 
grees of  latitude,  so  in  our  list  of  varieties  for  each  latitude 
we  shall  designate  them  as  very  early,  early,  medium,  late, 
and  very  late. 

The  column  of  origin,  Am.  is  a  designation  of  American, 
f ,  of  foreign. 


92 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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94  VARIETIES  OF  FRUITS. 

VARIETIES   OF    THE   PEACH   ADVISED   FOR  LATITUDE 
43  TO  40. 

We  name  as  very  early,  Early  York  and  Maine's  Early- 
for  early,  Alberge  Yellow  and  Yellow  Rareripe  ;  for  me- 
dium, Oldmixon  Free  and  Crawford's  Early;  to?  late,  Fos- 
ter and  Late  Admirable  ;  for  very  late,  Hyslop's  Cling  and 
Ward's  Late  Free.  If  it  be  desirable  in  a  large  orchard 
to  extend  the  list  to  twenty  varieties,  then  Alexander, 
Early  Beatrice  ;  for  very  early,  Cole 's  Early  Red  ;  for  early 
to  medium,  Cooledge's  Favorite,  Grosse  Mignonne,  George 
the  Fourth,  Jacques' Rareripe,  Morris  White,  Snow,  and 
Magdala. 

PEACHES    FOR    LATITUDE    40    TO    37. 

Alexander,  Amsden's  June,EarlyBeatrice,  f or  very  early  ; 
Alberge  Yellow,  Bergen  Yellow,  Early  York,  for  early ; 
Cooledge  s  Favorite,  Crawford 's  Early,  George  the  Fourth, 
Snow,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Oldmixon  Freestone,  Scott's 
Nonpareil,  Noblesse,  ior  medinm  j  Lemon  Cling,  Surpasse, 
Melocoton,  for  late  ;  Smock  Free,  Stump  the  World,  Sus- 
quehanna  for  very  late. 

PEACHES    FOR    LATITUDE    BELOW    37 

Nearly  all  of  the  above  named  varieties  are  valued  at 
the  South,  and  the  range  from  40  may  be  strictly  and  truly 
said  to  cover  the  whole  list  of  varieties  we  have  given. 
The  only  item  in  all  is,  the  popularity  of  a  variety  as  to 
its  value  for  market.  From  40  degrees  of  latitude  down, 
the  seedlings  are  yearly  being  brought  to  notice  and  com- 
mended. We  shall  only  name  a  few,  viz. :  Alexander, 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  95 

Chick's   Early,   Connor's  White,    Darby,   Governor,   Im- 
proved Pyramidal,  Amelia,  Muscogea,  Thurber,  Tuskuna. 


PLUMS. 

The  Plum  is  highly  esteemed  both  as  a  dessert  and 
cooking  fruit.  It  is  stated  that  the  original  parent  of  our 
•cultivated  varieties  is  a  native  of  Asia.  There  are  besides 
the  cultivated  varieties,  known  botanically  as  Prunus  do- 
mestica,  many  others,  native  of  our  own  country.  They 
are  known  under  various  botanical  terms,  Prunus  Chicasa, 
Prunus  Americana,  Prunus  Maratima,  and  in  general 
terms  called  Chickasaw,  to  the  latter  of  which  belong  the 
varieties  called  Wild  Goose,  Newman,  Mountain  Plum,  In- 
dian Chief,  one  of  the  Chicasa  family.  The  North  and 
the  South  can  depend  for  hardiness  only  upon  what  we 
-call  native  varieties.  Vermont  can  do  little  with  our  cul- 
tivated varieties,  except  in  certain  localities,  and  so  with 
all  the  extreme  north  ;  while  the  records  from  South  Caro- 
lina. Georgia,  Tennessee,  etc.,  give  place  only  to  our  native 
wild  varieties.  Ohio  and  westward  had  originally  many 
varieties  of  wild  Plums,  from  round  to  oval,  color  from 
dark  purple  to  red  and  yellow,  time  of  maturity  from  Sep- 
tember to  midwinter,  if  the  later  were  not  gathered.  The 
trade  in  these  native  wild  plums  was  at  one  time  a  large 
source  of  profit,  but  the  clearing  up  of  the  country  has 
destroyed  them  as  it  has  blackberries. 

The  plum  to  be  of  value  should  hang  upon  the  tree 
•until  perfectly  ripe,  no  matter  what  the  variety.  This, 


96  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

with  every  other  fruit,  requires  thinning  to  give  it  size  and 
flavor.  Certain  varieties  are  made  into  what  we  call  Prunes, 
such  as  the  St.  Catherine  and  Prune  d'Agen.  The  Blue 
Plum,  Damson,  Frost  Gage,  German  Prune,  Cruger's  Scar- 
let, also  may  be  used  for  this  purpose  in  our  warm  sections 
of  climate. 

ACCLIMATION,    INSECTS,    ETC. 

Many  discussions  in  regard  to  the  hardihood  and  pro- 
ductiveness of  tiees  have  been  written  by  capable  men, 
South  and  North.  This  acclimation  of  trees  to  a 
climate  has  been  the  talk  of  some  tree  dealers  South 
and  West,  they  claiming  great  superiority  for  those  of  the 
same  sorts  when  grown  in  Tennessee  and  Alabama  over 
the  growths  of  New  York  and  Massachusetts  ;  but  after 
traveling  not  a  little,  and  carefully  examining,  we  have 
failed  to  find  anything  to  support  the  statements  —  in  fact 
we  have  frequently  found  orchards  of  trees  obtained  from 
the  North  superior  to  those  of  trees  grown  from  the  bud 
at  the  South.  We  have,  therefore,  no  faith  in  acclimation. 
We  do  not  believe  change  of  climate  will  change  the  natu- 
ral order  of  the  tree  or  plant.  If  any  one  does,  we  should 
like  him  to  give  some  tangible  proof  of  his  beliefs  —  some- 
thing beside  imaginary  theory. 

The  insects,  etc.,  connected  with  Plum  culture  has  occu- 
pied many  pages  of  matter  of  late  years,  but  mainly  results 
in  the  fact  that  to  preserve  the  crop  from  the  curculio  or 
plum  weevil  (Rynihanus  Nenuphar) ,  a  small  dark  brown 
beetle  with  spots  of  white,  yellow,  and  black.  The  reme- 
dies given  for  destruction  of  this  insect,  or  for  prevention 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  97 

vV  it*  iLslvtiCtive  agency,  are  many,  but  the  two  we  now 
name  are  the  most  reiiaoie. 

One  is  of  a  man  whose  orchard  of  plums  was  in  a  sandy, 
ioamy  soil  It  was  plowed  lightly  with  a  one-horse  plow 
early  in  spring,  the  plow  cutting  a  little  more  than  two 
inches  deep.  During  the  summer,  until  about  the  first  of 
August,  it  was  cultivated  with  a  horse  cultivator  about 
once  in  two  or  three  weeks,  or  just  often  enough  to  keep 
the  weeds  down.  As  soon  as  the  plum  trees  opened  their 
blossoms,  boys  of  about  fourteen  or  sixteen  years  of  age 
were  employed  at  a  cost  of  eight  dollars  a  month  and 
board.  In  the  hands  of  each  boy  was  placed  a  pole  about 
ten  feet  long,  on  the  end  of  which  was  fastened  a  broad- 
mouthed  tin  cup,  holding  about  three  half-pints ;  and 
these  boys  were  kept  from  the  first  rays  of  light  in  the 
morning  until  sundown,  going  from  tree  to  tree,  dipping 
the  sandy  loam  into  their  cups  and  then  scattering  it 
among  and  through  the  branches  of  the  trees,  thus  so  dis- 
turbing the  curculio  that  he  failed  to  inflict  any  material 
injury  on  the  fruit.  In  fact  the  result  was,  the  owner 
almost  wished  the  boys  were  not  quite  so  faithful  in  their 
work ;  for,  if  he  could  have  had  one-fourth  the  plums 
thinned  out,  the  crop  would  have  been  better,  becaues 
the  plums  would  have  been  larger. 

This  work  of  curculio  hunting  or  disturbing  was  con- 
tinued steadily  from  the  time  of  the  first  setting  of  the 
fruit  —  which  is  even  before  the  whole  of  the  blossoms 
have  fallen  —  until  it  was  more  than  half  grown.  Some 
few  trees  which  were  outside  of  the  regular  orchard,  in 
turf  ground,  or  where  the  surface  could  not  well  be  stirred, 


98  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

were  supplied  with  a  heap  of  ashes  or  sand  from  which  to' 
load  the  cups. 

The  second  prevention,  and  one  now  most  generally,  is 
that  of  giving  the  tree  a  sudden  and  severe  jar  by  means 
of  a  mallet  or  pole,  so  protected  with  India  rubber  or 
gutta  percha  that  it  will  not  bruise  the  bark.  When  it  can 
be  done,  without  injury  to  the  tree,  a  large  lower  limb  is 
sawed  off  square  about  two  inches  from  the  body  of  the 
tree,  and  the  blow  given  on  it  to  create  the  sudden  jar. 

THE  BLACK  KNOT  on  plum  trees  has  in  many  places 
been  a  destructive  enemy  to  the  trees.  We  have  known 
the  following  to  be  successful  as  a  remedy  : — Take  a  paint 
brush,  dip  it  in  spirits  of  turpentine,  and  thoroughly  satu- 
rate the  knot,  being  careful  not  to  touch  the  tree  except 
in  the  diseased  part.  It  stops  the  knot,  and  the  tree  puts 
out  healthy  branches  below  it.  Be  careful  to  burn  all 
branches  removed  in  pruning.  As  the  summer  is  the 
time  the  mischief  is  done,  every  fresh  excrescence  should 
be  pared  off,  the  turpentine  applied,  and  it  will  harden  in 
a  week. 

Having  said  so  much  touching  the  value  and  troubles 
of  the  plum  and  its  culture,  we  will  make  out  our  regular 
table  list,  copied  in  form  from  the  Am.  Pom.  Society,  and 
following  as  with  other  fruits,  give  our  views  of  the  values 
in  certain  latitudes  to  a  certain  number  of  varieties.  The 
columns  explain  after  names  as  follows  :  Size — 1,  large  ; 
m,  medinm  ;  s,  small.  Color — p,  purplish  or  very  dark 
red  ;  r,  reddish  or  copper  color  ;  y,  yellow  ;  g,  y,  green- 
ish yellow  ;  y,  r,  yellowish  with  shades  and  spots  of  red. 
Form — r,  roundish  ;  o,  oval;  r,  o,  roundish  oval  ;  o,  ob, 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  99 

oval  obolate.  Quality — g,  good,  v,  g,  very  good;  b, 
best.  Use — f,  family;  m,  market. 

In  our  table  we  must  drop  the  naming  of  the  season, 
inasmuch  as  the  one  who  made  up  the  Am.  Pom.  Soci- 
ety's transactions  in  1873,  undertook  to  control  them  as 
ripening  at  a  high  latitude,  rather  than  take  an  average 
center  of  the  United  States. 

The  Origin — Am,  American  ;  F,  Foreign,  we  give  in 
column, — and  in  our  names  of  varieties  of  latitudes  will 
try  to  keep  in  mind  record  of  the  period  those  counted  as 
very  early,  early,  medium,  late  and  very  late. 

We  make  what  we  think  is  a  select  list  of  varieties,  and 
yet,  we,  in  naming  twenty  varieties  for  one  man's  culture, 
may  omit  others  that  with  care  and  attention  would  prove 
equally  good. 


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VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 


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tOi  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

VARIETIES    FOR    ABOVE    LATITUDE    43. 

For  very  early — Cherry,  Jaune  Hative.  For  early  or 
medium — Bleeker's  Gage,  Copper,  Cruger's  Scarlet,  Ger- 
man Prune,  Italian  Prune,  Lombard,  Red  Gage,  Mc- 
Laughlin,  Peter's  YrHow  Gage,  Prince's  Yellow  Gage, 
Purple,  Favorite,  St,  Catherine,  Sharp's  Emperor,  St. 
Lawrence.  For  late-— Chckasaw,  Damson,  Frost  Gage, 
Wild  Goose. 

VARIETIES    FOR    LATITUDE    43    TO    40. 

For  very  early — Cherry,  Jaune  Hative.  For  early  and 
medium — Bleeker's  Gage,  Bradshaw,  Duane's  Purple, 
Green  Gage,  Imperial  Gage,  Jefferson,  Lawrence's  Favor- 
ite. Lombard,  McLaughlin,  Prince's  Yellow  Gage,  Pur- 
ple Favorite,  Red  Gage,  Smith's  Orleans^  St.  Lawrence, 
Washington.  For  late — Blue  Imperatrice,  Bavay's  Green 
Gage,  Coe's  Golden  Drop. 

VARIETIES    FOR    LATITUDE    40    TO    37. 

For  very  early — Cherry,  Jaune  Hative.  For  early  to 
medium — Bleeker's  Gage,  Bradshaw,  Duane's  Purple,  Ger- 
man Prune,  Green  Gage,  Imperial  Gage,  Jefferson,  Law- 
rence's Favorite,  Lombard,  McLaughlin,  Red  Gage, 
Sharp's  Emperor,  Smith's  Orleans,  St.  Catherine.  For 
late — Bavay's  Green  Gage,  Coe's  Golden  Drop,  Frost 
Gage. 

VARIETIES    FOR    LATITUDE    BELOW    37. 

Our  list  for  this  lower  line  of  latitude,  we  make  more 
from  the  reports  of  Southern  fruit  growers  than  from  our 
own  knowledge.  One  of  the  most  capable  pomologists  of 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  103 

the  South  writes  touching  the  plum  as  follows  :—  '  The 
finer  classes  of  plums,  such  as  Gages,  etc.,  cannot  be 
grown  except  in  poultry  yards,  and  then  only,  if  the  trees 
are  carefully  watched  during  the  period  when  they  set 
fruit,  and  until  the  latter  has  attained  at  least  half  size. 
Our  improved  varieties  of  the  Chickasaw  type  are  less  lia- 
ble to  the  attack  of  the  curculio,  and  from  this  type  we 
reap  full  crops  every  year.  Many  new  varieties  have  lately 
been  introduced,  and  we  are  confident,  that  before  long, 
we  shall  possess  a  race  of  plums  that  will  comapare  favor- 
ably in  quality  with  the  Gages,  but  with  the  additional 
merit  of  being  better  growers  and  less  liable  to  the  attack 
of  the  curculio.  The  season  of  maturity  ranges  now  from 
the  end  of  May  until  the  beginning  of  September." 

With  this  knowledge  from  one  of  the  best  Southern 
pomologists,  we  shall  only  add  a  few  varieties  to  their 
native  seedlings.  We  will  start  our  list  with  Cherry, 
Chickasaw,  Damson,  De  Caradenc,  Frost  Gage,  Indian 
Chief,  Lombard,  Mountain  Plum,  Miner,  Newman  Tem- 
ple, and  Wild  Goose. 


THE  QUINCE. 

The  Quince  is  indigenous  to  Germany  and  the  south  of 
Europe.  It  is  a  well  known  hardy  fruit  tree,  and  perhaps 
pecuniarily  one  of  the  most  profitable  of  all  fruits.  Botan- 
ically  it  is  called  Cydonia  vulgaris,  this  name  said  to  have 
•come  from  the  city  of  Cydon  in  Crete.  Its  fruit  of  fine 
golden  yellow  when  ripe,  resembling  that  of  the  orange, 


104  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

together  with  its  white  and  pale  pink  blossoms,  when 
nearly  all  the  blossoms  of  other  fruit  trees  are  gone,  make 
it  both  a  profitable  and  ornamental  tree  of  what  we  may 
call  as  second  class  of  growth,  for  the  Quince  rarely  grows 
higher  than  fifteen  feet,  with  a  spread  of  branches  fully 
equal  to  the  height. 

As  a  fruit  for  eating  raw  or  uncooked  it  is  not  esteemed,, 
but  cooked,  stewed,  or  made  into  marmalade  it  has  few 
equals.  As  a  jelly  it  is  often  used  as  an  appetizer  to  meats,, 
especially  those  of  delicate  poultry.  Its  juices  are  said  to 
have  a  beneficial  effect  upon  asthmatic  patients,  while 
mingled  with  the  apple,  even  when  dried,  it  gives  a. 
piquancy  to  the  sauce  beyond  that  of  any  other  fruit. 

It  is  quite  productive  when  young,  and  meets  a  ready 
market  at  remunerative  prices.  It  is  so  firm  that  it  can 
be  shipped  long  distances  without  injury;  in  fact,  care- 
fully packed  and  confined  in  a  barrel  it  improves  in  ap- 
pearance for  many  days.  The  Quince  can  be  easily 
propagated  from  seed,  cuttings,  layers,  or  small  pieces 
of  roots. 

Cuttings  prepared  in  autumn  and  heeled  in  during  win- 
ter, then  planted  out  in  spring,  generally  make  fine  stocks 
or  plants  on  which  to  engraft  or  bud  varieties  of  the  pear. 
The  fact  of  the  quince  making  the  most  of  its  roots  near 
the  surface,  and  those  small,  has  a  tendency  to  check  the 
growth  of  the  pear  and  so  cause  it  to  form  fruit  buds. 
Propagation  by  small  pieces  of  the  roots  is  one  of  easy 
and  all  time  practice.  Simply  dig  away  around  an  old  or 
well  grown  tree,  and  cut  from  the  roots  pieces  two  to  four 
inches  in  length ;  set  these  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  de- 


VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS.  105 

grees  in  any  soil  and  cover  two  inches  over  the  top,  and 
growth  will  ensue.  Here  perhaps  it  may  not  be  inappro- 
priate to  place  the  accompanying  cut,  showing  how  not 
only  the  Quince  proper,  but  the  Blackberry,  Raspberry, 
Japan  or  Flowering  Quince,  Sweet  Scented  Shrub,  and 
other  plants  that  naturally  throw  up  suckers,  may  be 
propagated. 


The  soil  that  best  suits  the  Quince  is  that  of  a  loamy 
deep  character,  and  overflowed  at  times  of  freshets  for  a 
day  or  two.  But  the  tree  can  be  grown  profitably  upon 
the  poorest  soil,  by  applying  on  the  surface  a  rich  dress- 
Ing  of  well  rotted  manure,  and  then  mulching  with  old 
litter,  leaves,  etc. 

The  pruning  of  the  Quince  is  a  mere  nothing.  While 
young,  and  even  when  old,  sucker  shoots  will  appear  near 
the  crown  of  the  root ;  these  should  be  removed,  and 
occasionally  one  of  the  leading,  rapid-growing  branches 
on  the  tree  will  require  to  have  three  or  four  inches  taken 
from  its  end,  so  as  to  cause  it  to  make  stronger  lateral 
tranches,  and  so  produce  fruit  without  any  breaking  down. 
Like  all  other  fruits,  the  thinning  out  when  one-fourth 
grown  of  one-fourth  of  the  fruit  will  cause  the  balance  to 
become  larger,  and  fully  pay  the  expense  of  pruning  from 
its  increased  value. 

OF  VARIETIES,  the  Apple-shaped  or  Orange-shaped  has 
long  been  counted  the  most  tender  and  best.  The  Por- 


106  VARIETIES    OF    FRUITS. 

tugal  is,  however,  superior  in  quality,  but  not  as  pro- 
ductive. Rea's  Seedling  has  a  reputation  over  the  Apple 
or  Orange  shaped.  It  is  somewhat  larger,  but  not  as  pro- 
ductive. The  most  productive  and  profitable  as  a  market 
sort  is  the  Angers.  The  trees  are  healthy,  very  productive, 
and  when  well  ripened  and  colored  will  rarely  be  classed 
by  dealers  as  other  than  the  Apple  or  Orange. 

The  Pear-shaped  is  unworthy  of  culture,  and  there  is  a 
sweet  quince,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  will  fill  the 
place  of  others. 


ADDENDA. 


ADORNMENTS. THE    BEAUTIFYING    THEREOF. 

The  enthusiastic,  energetic,  world  benefiting  publisher 
01  this  little  book,  has  insisted  upon  something  touching 
thv,  naming  of  some  of  the  best  flowering  shrubs,  roses, 
budding-out  plants,  perennials,  low  growing  evergreens, 
vines,  etc.,  etc.,  and,  rather  than  neglect  a  duty,  we  shall 
attempt  to  write  somewhat  of  practical  use.  We  do  not 
propose  to  write  an  essay  on  aesthetic  horticulture  or  the 
science  of  the  art,  for  all  such  are  but  as  the  bloom  from 
seed  fir^t  sown  in  the  garden  of  Eden.  But  when  one 
has  an  old  barren  piece  of  ground  with  a  tenement  upon 
it,  we  wish  to  show  how  a  few  hardy  flowering  shrubs 
ana  seeds  can  make  of  it  a  place  of  beauty,  where  the 
children  can  play  and  enjoy  themselves  without  hindrance 
or  scoffing  from  their  neighbors. 

Strange  ideas  enter  into  the  minds  of  many  persons, 
when  the  subject  of  beautifying  home  surroundings  is 
mentioned  in  their  presence  They  will  usually  utter  the 
far  too  common  and  absurd  remark  that  such  things  are 
costly,  and  it  is  only  the  rich  who  can  afford  them.  It 
certainly  costs  no  more,  as  a  general  rule,  to  build  a  house 
ten  rods  from  the  highway  than  one  as  many  feet  from  it ; 
and  still  these  latter  unsuitable  and  inappropriate  locations 


I08  ADDENDA. 

are  being  occupied  almost  every  day.  If  lawns  are  named, 
rollers,  particular  kinds  of  seeds,  and  lawn  mowers  are 
brought  to  mind  ;  and  while  we  are  ready  to  admit  that 
a  good  lawn  cannot  be  made  nor  kept  in  first-rate  con- 
dition without  these  implements,  still  a  grass  plat,  large 
or  small,  occasionally  mown,  is  far  better  than  none. 
Even  a  meadow  or  pasture  in  front  or  near  a  dwelling 
might  add  something  to  its  general  good  appearance. 

The  far  too  common  style  of  arrangement  of  country 
homes,  is  to  place  the  mansion  within  a  few  feet  of  the 
public  road,  the  barn  a  few  rods  in  the  rear,  and  the  in- 
tervening space  is  filled  with  wood  piles  or  necessary  out- 
buildings. If  there  is  a  kitchen  garden  it  is  usually  situ- 
ated near  the  road,  at  one  side  of  the  house,  and  then 
enclosed  with  a  picket  fence,  painted  white  or  white- 
washed. Where  a  man  owns  but  a  fraction  of  an  acre,, 
such  a  cluttered  arrangement  may  be  admissible  and 
passed  without  comment ;  but  upon  farms  of  many  acres 
in  extent,  it  not  only  shows  a  sad  want  of  taste,  but  of 
broad  ideas  in  regard  to  the  fitness  of  things  in  genera1 
A  few  trees  from  the  forest,  planted  here  and  there,  cost 
but  little  or  nothing,  and  yet  how  much  they  add  to  the 
beauty  and  elegance  of  home  surroundings,  besides  afford- 
ing an  agreeable  shade  in  summer  to  both  man  and  beast. 

Our  idea  of  an  elegant  but  inexpensive  home  on  a  farm 
where  pasture  or  a  meadow  is  a  requisite,  is  to  so  arrange 
it  that  with  moveable  fences  they  can  pasture  what  may 
be  termed  the  lawn,  and  yet  keep  the  beauty  of  flora's 
gifts.  In  fact,  there  are  many  ways  of  making  home  sur- 
roundings elegant  without  incurring  any  extra  expense. 


ADDENDA.  log 

Farmers  in  particular  are  prone  to  emagine  that  they  can- 
not afford  to  spend  much  time  or  money  in  outside  deco- 
rations of  their  homes,  and  in  many  instances  it  would 
not  be  advisable  ;  but  little  forethought  in  the  general 
arrangement  of  buildings,  planting  of  trees  and  seeding 
down  land  for  meadows  and  pastures,  would  give  to  thou- 
sands of  homes  an  air  of  elegance  and  refinement  without 
a  penny  of  additional  expense.  And  after  all  it  is  the 
thinking  that  is  necessary.  The  man  who  thinks  learns 
to  desire  ;  and  desiring  learns  to  act. 

And  he  who  sees  daily  the  products  of  the  Creator  in 
the  form  of  blossoms  to  produce  fruit,  flower,  grain  or 
grass,  should  remember  that  all  of  this  brought  daily  to 
the  observation  of  his  children  is  leading  them  to  purity 
and  truth. 

As  an  illustration  of  what  may  be  done  at  a  small  ex- 
pense we  offer  the  following  The  property  was  almost  a 
barren,  but  in  five  years  paid  $4,000  per  year  from  the 
crops : 

The  boundary  line  on  the  street  and  each  side  is  grown 
with  hedge  of  varieties — some  of  evergreen,  some  of 
flowering  shrubs,  willows,  etc.,  etc.  As  you  enter  from 
the  street  —  which  is  on  the  north  of  the  place — at  the 
left  hand  is  the  pond,  about  in  form  as  per  outline  on 
ground  plan ;  at  the  south  end  is  a  little  rock  work  planted 
with  shrubs,  vines,  etc.,  and  so  more  or  less  of  rocks, 
vines,  shrubs,  etc.,  dot  the  banks  of  the  pond,  while  trees 
of  ultimate  majestic  growth  cast  their  shadows  over  the 
water. 

Continuing  on  south  beyond  the  pond  is,  say  eighty 


110  ADDENDA. 

feet  from  it,  a  rustic  summer  house,  with  evergreens, 
shrubs,  etc.,  surrounding  and  vines  entwined  upon  it. 
And  then  the  straight  lines  mark  the  rows  of  grapes, 
while  bordering  the  footpath  is  a  belt  of  perennials,  shrubs, 
etc.,  etc.,  until  you  reach  indications  of  trees  by  dots; 
then  skipping  a  space  of  some  twenty  feet,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  passing  a  wagon,  should  it  be  desirable  ever  so  to 
do,  comes  a  bank,  en  masse,  of  flowering  shrubs  against 
the  footpath,  backed  up  with  dwarf  apples  and  pears,  until 
within  about  twenty  feet  of  the  line  boundary,  which  space 
is  devoted  to  strawberries. 

Going  back  now  to  the  entrance,  on  the  right  of  the 
entrance  and  the  carriage  road  we  have  beds  or  masses  of 
rock  work,  evergreen  and  flowering  shrubs,  with  elm, 
weeping  poplar,  birch,  etc.,  while  bordering  the  carriage 
way,  most  of  the  way  to  the  house,  are  cherries.  A  quince 
and  dwarf  pear  orchard  is  off  at  the  right,  two  or  three 
rows  of  grapes,  and  then  the  vegetable  garden  ;  while  the 
stiffness  of  the  avenue  of  cherries  has  been  broken  by 
throwing  out  other  trees  and  grouping  from  place  to  place, 
something  as  my  dots  indicate. 

An  apple  and. standard  pear  and  peach  orchard  is  south 
of  the  garden  plot,  while  on  the  lawn  the  flower  beds  are 
shown,  cut  out  of  and  surrounded  by  grass. 

Directly  in  front  of  the  house,  some  twenty  feet  or  so 
wide,  is  a  bank  of  rock  work  planted  with  vines  and  ever- 
green shrubs.  Evergreen  trees,  as  well  as  deciduous  orna- 
mental sorts,  are  at  the  right  of  the  house  and  in  among 
the  orchard.  The  rear  portion  of  this  place  is  blocked 
out  and  planted  in  lines  with  fruit  trees,  vines,  small  fruits, 


ADDENDA. 


ITT 


FIG.  i. — PLAN  OF  GROUND, 


ADDENDA. 


in  great  abundance;  and  in  the  rear  of  the  house  are 
groups  of  deciduous  and  evergreen  trees  for  screen,  shel- 
ter, and  ornament. 


THE  ROSE. 

Now,  as  the  Rose  is  the  pre-eminent  flower  of  all  the 
world  and  holds  supremacy  everywhere,  we  will  take  hold 
of  it  as  in  the  spring. 

The  blooming  season  of  roses  is  again  upon  us,  and 
every  garden  is  gay  with  flowers.  The  more  common  old 
sorts  of  June  roses  have  among  them  many  superb  varie- 
ties unsurpassed  in  perfection  of  form  and  color  of  flower, 
if,  indeed,  they  are  equaled  by  any  of  the  Perpetuals  or 
Teas.  No  Perpetual  or  Tea  can  vie  in  black,  deep,  vel- 
vety richness  with  the  old  African  Belle,  or  pi  ^sent  the 
rich,  purple  red  of  George  the  Fourth  ;  and  when  we 
look  at  Cerisette,  King  Richard  III,  and  many  others  of 
the  old  Junes,  we  cannot  refrain  from  wishing  them 
always  with  us  ;  but  it  cannot  be,  or  rather  it  is  not  now, 
and  as  we  must  have  roses  all  the  time,  now  let  us  be 
content  with  the  splendor  of  such  Perpetuals  as  General 
Jaqueminot,  or  the  fulness  of  good  old  Baronne  Provost, 
touching  up  the  lines  with  a  host  more  of  shades,  then 
resting  the  eye  for  a  moment  on  Marshal  Neil  —  for  its 
brilliancy  will  not  admit  of  long  continued  gazing  at  it  — 
and  be  satisfied. 

After  all,  while  the  old  June  roses  are  full  of  beauty, 


ADDENDA.  113 

yet  possibly  we  have  got  about  their  equals  when  we  come 
to  iook  over ;  for  in  fact  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan  will 
almost  equal  in  intensity  of  rich  blackness  old  Belle  Afri- 
caine  ;  and  Madame  Victor  Verdier  is  quite  equal  to  Ceri- 
sette ;  and  then,  if  we  manage  them  rightly,  they  give  us 
more  or  less  of  blossoms  all  summer  long,  and  even  up  to 
the  frosts  of  winter. 

Each  planter  must  use  his  own  judgment  as  to  selection 
of  kinds  and  classes,  and  so,  also,  as  to  arrangement  of 
colors.  We  would  not  arrange  colors  at  all,  the  more 
mixed  the  better — both  colors  and  sorts,  Teas,  Bourbons, 
Noisettes,  and  Perpetuals  ;  only,  in  large  beds,  we  should 
try  to  place  our  largest  and  strongest  growers  at  the  back 
and  in  the  center,  keeping  the  dwarf  sorts,  such  as  Du- 
petit  Thouars,  Bourbon,  or  Lady  Byron,  Bengal,  etc., 
in  front. 

TRAINING    ROSES. 

There  is  also  great  diversity  of  opinion  as  to  the  form 
the  plants  should  assume.  A  good  way  is  the  pinching 
in  the  ends  of  the  shoots  as  they  grow,  and  thus  compel 
the  plant  to  throw  out  side  branches,  and  so  perfect  the 
rounded  form  at  the  same  time  that  it  increases  the  num- 
ber of  flowers.  To  our  eye,  a  bed  kept  in  this  way  is 
much  more  attractive  than  when  the  plants  are  permitted 
to  make  long,  straggling  stems  here  and  there. 

Another  practice,  which  is  also  effective,  is  to  peg  down 
the  shoots  as  they  grow,  and  so  literally  carpet  the  whole 
ground  with  roses.  In  beds  mainly  composed  of  large  old 
plants  of  Perpetuals  the  practice  is  a  good  one.  Especially 
u  only  the  long  canes  of  the  last  year  are  pegged,  while 


114  ADDENDA. 

the  older  or  two  or  more  years 'wood  is  all  cut  away ;  tmt 
in  newly  planted  beds,  or  those  of  mixed  sorts,  we  prefer 
pinching  to  form  little  bushes. 

The  ground  for  roses  cannot  be  too  deep,  nor  too  rich, 
if  only  the  enriching  compost  be  well  and  thoroughly 
rotted.  Roses  budded  give  larger  and  better  blooms  than 
when  grown  on  their  own  roots,  but  so  few  appear  to 
recognize  the  necessity  of  cutting  away  the  suckers  which 
at  times  come  from  the  stock,  that  it  is  advisable  to  plant 
only  those  grown  on  their  own  roots.  If,  however,  the 
plants  cannot  be  had  otherwise  than  budded,  then  always 
plant  so  as  to  cover  the  point  where  the  bud  was  inserted 
at  least  two  inches  in  the  ground,  and  then,  if  you  wish 
to  make  the  plant  strike  roots  from  itself,  as  soon  as  it  is 
well  established  take  a  knife  and  make  a  few  slight  notches 
just  at  the  point  where  it  is  budded,  and  from  these 
notches,  or  wounds,  new  roots  will  soon  strike,  and  when 
well  grown  the  old  root  below  can  be  cut  away. 

FORMS    OF    ROSES. 

In  almost  every  catalogue  descriptive  of 
roses,   as  well  as  in  the  rose  books,  there 
are  certain  terms  used  to  indicate  the  forms 
of  flowers — terms  which,  though  apparently 
plain,  yet   are  often   seemingly   misunder- 
CUPPED.       stood.     We  copy  here  sketches  of  the  forms 
of  roses,  with  their  appropriate  terms. 

Although  the  actual  form  of  a  flower  varies  with  its 
growth  —  some  roses  being  globular  when  partly  blown 
and  cupped  or  expanded  when  fully  developed  —  it  should 


ADDENDA 


always  be  understood  that  this  point  should  be  decided 
when  the  flower  is  at  its  best,  or  just  before  its  "  bla.se  " 


EXPANDED. 


REFLEXED. 


HALF  CUPPED.  GLOBULAR. 

development  by  sun  and  air,  and  that  its  true  contour  can 
be  most  distinctively  ascertained  from  a  profile  view,  the 
flower  being  held  level  with  the  eye,  because  then  dif- 
ferences can  be  most  distinctively  perceived. 

PLANTING    ROSES. 

Roses  may  be  planted  at  any  time  in  the  growing  season, 
because  nearly  all  commercial  rose  growers  on  a  large 
scale  have  them  in  pots  from  which  they  can  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  ground  at  any  time  without  risk.  In  trans- 
ferring roses  grown  in  the  open  ground,  of  course  early 
Spring  or  Fall  must  be  the  time  ;  but  in  our  experience 
some  of  the  best  rose  beds  —  filled  with  blooms  up  to 
Winter's  frosts — that  we  ever  saw,  were  turned  into  the 
ground  from  the  pots  in  June. 


yl  ADDENDA. 

GOOD    ROSES    NAMED. 

Among  the  many  good  roses,  let  us  name  the  following, 
although  there  are  many  more  perhaps  equally  good  ;  in- 
deed, we  suppose  the  first  reader  will  accuse  us  of  leaving 
out  one  with  which  he  is  acquainted  and  that  he  thinks 
best  of  all ;  but  as  we  can 't  print  the  whole  lift  of  many 
hundreds,  we  must  risk  our  list,  knowing  that  all  in  it  are 
good. 

Of  Hybrid  Perpetuals. — Mademoiselle  Jennie  Maux  is 
a  new  one  of  bright  rose  color,  large  and  of  fine  form. 
Beauty  of  Waltham  is  a  bright  rosy  crimson,  very  large r 
and  a  free  bloomer.  Chas.  Rouillard  is  of  a  bright  rose 
color,  large  and  full,  and  a  free  bloomer.  Francis  Arago 
is  of  a  rich,  velvety  maroon.  General  Washington  is  a 
brilliant  rosy  carmine,  almost  scarlet,  also  a  free  bloomer. 
George  Prince  is  of  a  dazzling  red,  tinged  with  rose. 
Mademoiselle  Bertha  Seveque  is  a  pure  white,  with  a 
shade  or  tint  of  rose  color  late  in  Autumn.  Maurice  Ber- 
nardine  is  a  brilliant  vermillion,  blooming  in  clusters.. 
President  Lincoln  is  a  dark  red,  with  a  crimson  shade. 
Panache  d 'Orleans  is  a  white  and  rose  color  striped. 

Of  Bourbons. — Appoline  is  a  light  pink  ;  Blanche  Lafitte 
is  flesh  color ;  Decandole  is  purplish  red ;  Hermosa,  r.osy 
blush  ;  Souvenir  de  Malmaison,  clear,  flesh  color ;  Louis 
Margottin  a  satiny  rose  color. 

In  Teas  and  China  and  Bengal  Roses  one  can  hardly  go 
amiss,  tor  all  are  good,  and  each  one  you  buy  and  flower 
will  beget  a  desire  for  another. 


ADDENDA 


LAYERING    ROSES. 

This  is  a  very  simple  and  easy  way  of  propagating 
hardy  roses ;  and  the  last  of  June  is  a  good  time  to  do  it. 
Select  a  good  strong  shoot  that  has  just  done  flowering, 
bend  it  over  and  see  just  where  it  will  come  when  pegged 
down,  then  excavate  a  little  trench  on  the  line  four  inches 
deep ;  if  the  soil  is  clayey,  scatter  on  the  bottom  of  this 
trench  an  inch  of  sandy  loam,  then  bend  down  the  branch , 
fasten  it  with  the  peg  a  in  sketch  ;  then  take  a  sharp  knife 
and  cut  a  notch  on  the  upper  side,  b,  or  make  a  long  slit, 
as  you  please  ;  but  if  you  choose  the  latter,  insert  between 
a  bit  of  stick  or  a  pebble  stone  ;  then  bend  up  the  shoot, 
as  shown  in  sketch,  and  fill  in  with  sandy  soil,  pressing  it 
firm  with  your  hand,  but  avoid  treading  for  fear  you  will 
break  the  layer. 

The  dirt  being  filled  in  around  it,  trim  off  the  half  ripe 
wood  and  leaves,  leaving  about  four  to  five  of  the  strongest 
and  about  as  many  inches  of  wood  above  ground  ;  finally, 
finish  by  scattering  over  and  all  around  for  a  foot  or  more 
a  mulch  of  either  new  mown  grass,  straw,  moss,  etc.,  to 
keep  an  even  temperature  and  assist  the  root  formation  at 


ADDENDA. 


the  point  where  you  made  the  cut.  The  soil  is  warm,  but 
if  you  let  the  sun  on  strong,  and  a  dry  time  comes,  the 
young  roots  that  are  naturally  forced  out  of  the  plant  will 
decay. 


ADDENDA.  119 

Herewith  we  show  an  illustration  of  how  a  rose  can  be 
trained  to  make  a  perfect  rounded  mass  of  bloom.  Two 
to  three  inches  of  the  main  stem  at  the  base  have  all  the 
buds  nibbed  out,  and  any  suckers  from  the  roots  below 
are  destroyed.  When  the  plant  has  made  six  inches  of 
growth  pinch  the  ends  of  the  upright  shoots  and  throw 
strength  into  the  side  branches.  Continue  this  course  as 
the  plant  grows,  and  with  many  varieties  the  illustration 
given  will  be  overshadowed. 

Ere  we  leave  the  roses  let  us  say  that  where  the  Bour- 
bons, Noisettes,  Chinas,  Teas,  etc.,  are  often  winter  killed 
if  left  out  in  the  open  ground  ;  that  if  they  are  taken  up 
ere  there  is  two  inches  deep  of  frost  in  the  earth,  and 
heeled  in  to  a  common  hot-bed  frame,  then  covered  with 
small  brush  and  over  that  a  covering  of  leaves,  then  boards 
put  over  so  that  water  will  not  come  in,  they  will  find  the 
roots  of  the  plants  in  spring  as  good  as  new.  When  plant- 
ing out  be  careful  to  keep  the  roots  from  the  air,  and  cut 
the  tops  down  to  three  or  four  inches  from  the  crown  of 
the  roots.  All  varieties  are  the  better  for  being  cut  down 
near  the  ground  in  early  spring,  then  the  leading  shoots 
pinched  back  from  time  to  time  and  the  faded  flowers 
picked  off.  Never  refuse  to  give  your  friend  a  boquet  of 
roses  if  you  do  not  cut  the  fresh  opening  buds.  This  re- 
mark I  acknowledge  is  a  little  out  of  my  line,  for  I  always 
cut  the  faded  roses  and  drop  them  on  the  ground,  while 
I  put  the  buds  and  half  blown  ones  into  my  friends  hands. 

Each  year  brings  new  varieties  of  roses,  and  while  we 
cannot  give  the  whole  list,  we  will  here  give  a  short  list 
of  the  latest  and  best  new  ones  : 


120  ADDENDA. 

MAY  TURNER — English  Verdier. — A  very  hardy  Hy- 
bred  Perpetual  rose  of  1875  ;  the  foliage  light  green  ; 
flowers  large,  full  and  of  good  form,  of  a  delicate  salmon  - 
rose,  with  the  under  surface  of  the  petals  of  a  deeper 
shade. 

REINE  DES  MASSIFS — Levet. — A  vigorous  new  Noisette 
rose  of  ^875.  Flowers  medium  in  size  ;  fine  salmon-yel- 
low, sometimes  coppery,  magnificent;  of  a  very  free 
blooming  habit ;  adapted  for  masses. 

BERNARD  VERLOT  —  Eng.  Verdier. — A  Hybrid  Per- 
petual rose  of  1875  ;  the  flowers  large,  full  and  finely 
formed,  in  the  way  of  Lord  Raglan,  but  more  globular; 
poppy  red,  the  center  shaded  with  violet-purple;  very 
hardy  and  well  spoken  of. 

SHIRLEY  HIBBERD — Levet. — A  new  Tea  Rose  of  1875 
and  quite  new  in  color,  being  a  handsome  nankeen  yel- 
low. The  flowers  of  medium  size,  full,  of  a  flattish  cup 
form,  and  very  freely  borne. 

ANTOINE  MOUTON — Levet. — A  Hybrid  Perpetual  Rose 
of  1875  ;  flowers  very  large  and  full,  well  formed,  in  the 
way  of  Centifolia  j  beautiful  bright  pink  color,  reverse  of 
the  petals  silvery  ;  plant  vigorous  ;  extra  good. 

MARIE  GUILLOT — Guillot  Junior. — A  new  Tea  Rose  of 
1875,  vigorous  in  its  habit  of  growth,  clothed  with  hand- 
some foliage  of  good  substance.  Superb,  nearly  white 
flowers,  just  faintly  tinged  with  a  delicate  shade  of  lemon. 

MONSIEUR  E.  Y.  TEAS — Eng.  Verdier. — This  Hybrid 
Perpetual  Rose  is  a  large  rose,  the  color  deep  cerise  red. 
bright  and  striking ;  of  globular  shape,  full  and  well 
formed. 


ADDENDA.  121 

JEAN  DUCHER  —  Madame  Ducher. — A  very  vigorous 
growing  new  Tea  Rose  of  1875,  with  large,  handsome 
and  healthy  foliage.  It  has  proved  to  be  a  very  free 
bloomer  ;  the  flowers  are  large,  full  and  globular,  salmon- 
yellow,  the  interior  shaded  with  peach  color. 

PERLE  DE  LYON. —  A  magnificent  rose,  and  a  rival  to 
the  celebrated  Marechal  Niel.  The  flowers  are  large,  of 
firm  texture,  and  of  a  richer,  deeper  yellow  than  M.Niely 
holding  on  well ;  of  exquisite  shape  and  borne  freely  on 
short  shoots,  as  it  is  not  of  a  running  habit. 

The  following  are  new  English  varieties.  All  are  Hybrid 
Perpetual s,  except  Dutchess  of  Edinburgh  : 

CLIMBING  JULES  MARGOTTIN — Cranston. — A  sprot  from 
fules  Margottin  ;  flowers  exactly  similar  to  its  parent ;  a 
free  and  vigorous  climber,  branching  freely.  A  great 
acquisition  as  a  free  growing,  perpetual  climbing  rose,  of 
handsome  form  ar»d  color,  growing  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
in  a  season. 

CRIMSON  BEDDER  —  Cranston. — As  a  crimson  bedding 
rose  this  variety  is  said  to  surpass  every  other  rose  for 
brilliancy  of  color  and  perpetual  blooming ;  its  habit  of 
growth  is  moderate  and  the  shoots  short  jointed,  pro- 
ducing a  mass  of  flowers  all  over  the  bed  from  June  till 
November.  Color,  scarlet  and  crimson,  very  effective  and 
lasting;  foliage,  clean,  glossy,  and  free  from  mildew. 

JOHN  STUART  MILL  —  Turner. — A  fine  flower  of  superb 
form  ;  of  a  bright,  clear  red  color,  very  rich  and  distinct ; 
large  globular  and  very  full.  An  excellent  exhibition 


122  ADDENDA. 

flower  and  useful  for  garden  decoration ;   its  constitution 
is  good  and  its  habit  of  flowering  free. 

Miss  HASSARD  —  Turner. —  In  the  way  of  Baronness 
Rothschild  and  much  better;  the  flowers  are  large,  very 
double,  of  a  beautiful  flesh  pink,  with  petals  of  splendid 
substance  and  delightfully  fragrant.  It  is  a  vigorous  grower 
and  a  very  desirable  acquisition. 

REV.  J.  B.  M.  CAMM  —  Turner. — Very  deep  rose-pink 
flowers,  large  and  of  a  beautiful  globular  form  and  of 
superb  quality;  very  sweet  and  constant.  "In  color, 
form,  and  exquisite  fragrance  all  that  can  be  desired." 

ROYAL  STANDARD  —  Turner. —  Flowers  large,  of  a  soft, 
satiny-rose  color,  wonderfully  full  and  exquisitely  formed. 

STAR  OF  WALTHAM —  Wm.  Paul. — Deep  crimson,  color 
very  rich  and  effective  ;  a  magnificent  flower  of  immense 
size,  very  double.  Foliage  very  large,  without  being  coarse, 
of  a  rich  dark  green  color,  forming  a  beautiful  contras 
with  the  flowers. 

DUCHESS  OF  EDINBURGH  —  Veitch. —  "This  new  Tea 
Rose  will  make  the  eyes  of  Rosarians  sparkle  with  de- 
light." Flowers,  brilliant  vermillion  shaded  with  a  rich 
velvety  maroon,  very  large  indeed,  and  full  in  the  highest 
sense  of  the  word.  The  foliage  is  handsome,  of  a  rich 
dark  green  color,  and  finely  serrated. 

ROSES    IN    POTS    FOR    HOUSE    CULTURE. 

Nearly  all  of  the  classes  called  Tea,  or  Bengal,  are 
adapted  to  the  growing  in  pots,  and  kept  in  the  ordinary 
sitting  room  of  the  family  Duchess  de  Brabant,  Bella, 


ADDENDA.  123 

Bon  Silene,  Saffrano,  and  Isabella  Sprunt  rank  among  the 
best  for  this  purpose.  To  make  sure  of  having  good 
blooms  in  winter,  the  plants  should  have  been  grown  in 
pots  during  the  summer  previous,  and  not  too  much  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  or  the  pots  exposed,  but  either  plunged 
in  the  ground  or  wrapped  with  moss  or  grass  and  kept 
cool.  If  during  winter  the  green  aphis  gets  upon  the 
plant,  make  some  weak  tobacco  water,  warm  —  not  hot  — 
and  dip  the  plants  into  them,  immediately  thereafter  into 
clean,  soft,  tepid  water. 

Hardy  bulbs,  such  as  Hyacinths, Tulips,  Crocus,  Lilies, 
etc.,  make  up  great  beauty  in  a  homestead,  and  they  may 
be  planted,  and  as  they  grow  in  spring,  flowers  of  Verbenas ', 
Petunias,  Sweet  Aly sum,  Aster,  Balsam  or  Lady's  Slipper, 
Carnation,  Pinks  of  varieties,  Clarkia,  Sweet  Pear,  Helio- 
trope, Lantana,  Lychnis,  Crocus,  Narcissus,  Nasturtium, 
Phlox  Drummondi,  Portulacca,  Salvia  Tube  roses  and 
Zinnias  may  be  worked  in  to  make  up  the  beds  of  floral 
beauty  around  the  house. 

And  now  we  will  say  to  our  readers  that  the  formation 
for  beds  for  flowering  summer  plants,  such  as  Geraniums, 
Petunias,  Salvias,  Herbaceous  Paeonias,  equal  in  beauty 
to  Rhododendrons  or  Tree  Pseonias,  Phloxes,  Chrysan- 
theunms,  Double  Flowering  Hollyhocks  and  Dahlias, 
mingling  with  them  many  of  the  hardy  perennials  as  the 
Achillea,  Aconitum,  Aquilygea,  Bocconia,  Campanula  of 
many  colors  ;  Iris  of  over  seventeen  varieties;  Liatris, 
Sedums  of  more  than  twenty  varieties  and  of  great  beauty 
in  a  rough,  rocky  bed  ;  Spirea,s  Statice,  Tritoma,  Veroni- 
cas, Vincas  and  Yuccas,  that  from  these  plants,  oval  beds 


124  ADDENDA. 

•or  diamond  formed,  or  made  from  the  shape  of  an  oak  or 
maple  leaf.  Studying  the  subject  quietly,  and  then  in 
preparing  the  bed  make  it  four  to  six  inches  higher  in  the 
•center,  and  planting  the  strongest  growing  plants  and 
deepest  colored  flowers  in  the  center,  toning  out  to  the 
border  with  low  growing  light  colored  flowers. 

Again  we  will  suggest  that  we  make  groups  of  Hardy 
Deciduous  Flowering  Shrubs.  Suppose  our  border  be 
oblong  in  form  along  the  foot-path,  or  breaking  the  form 
of  a  carriage  road,  let  us  use  varieties  of  Altheas  for  the 
-center,  surround  them  with  varieties  of  Wiegelas  ;  then 
again  a  belt  of  tree  or  upright  Honeysuckles,  then  with 
Lilacs  mingled  with  the  shrubby  Hydrangeas,  then  here 
and  there  a  purple  Magnolia  and  two  or  three  varieties  of 
the  Japan  Quince;  now  two  or  three  of  Syrengas,  and 
then  bound  the  whole  with  Spireas,  Calycanthus  and 
Deutzias. 

So  much  for  a  group  of  Hardy  Flowering  Shrubs.  Now 
suppose  we  take  a  long  oval  bed  of  twenty  by  forty  feet, 
.and  count  it  a  break  from  the  front  lawn,  overlooked  by 
the  windows  and  porches  in  front  of  the  house.  Suppose 
we  plant  at  each  end  of  the  oval  a  Juniperus,  prostrata 
densata  nana,  repent,  Squamata,  Sabina  alpina  and  Nipar- 
tita  :  next  back  of  them,  or  if  you  will,  intermingled  by  one 
who  knows  of  their  growth,  Sabina  Tamariscifolia,  Sabina 
variagata,  Chinensis  oblonga  pendula ,  recuma,  densa,  Ree- 
vesii  Rigila,  Thurifera,  Virginiana  Pendula  ;  and  next  in 
back  of  the  foregoing  to  fill  up  the  center,  fore  and  back 
ground — Abies  Excelsa  Inverta,  A.  Excelsa  Mucronata, 
A.  Excelsa  Pygmcea,  A .  canadensis ,  A.  canadensis  nana, 


ADDENDA.  125 

A.  canadensis  microphylla,  A.  Pumila  Nigra,  Pimis  stra- 
bus  nina,  Thuia  occidentalis  pcndula,  Thuja  Hoveyi,  Thuja 
Sibcrica,  Thuja  compacata,  TJiuja  Pygmcea,  Pinus  pumiia, 
Pi  mis  Mugho,  Pinus  Mugho  Rrtu-^.data,  Pinus  Cembra. 
There  is  the  grouping  and  filling  of  the  whole  shade  from 
the  Euyonymus  or  Strawberry  Tree,  or  Burning  Bush  as 
it  is  variously  called.  The  Berberry,  Cornus  or  Dog- 
Avood,  Forsythia,  High  Bush  Cranberry,  Japan  Quince, 
in  varieties,  mingled  indiscriminately  at  distances  of  two 
to  four  feet  apart  in  the  bed.  and  yearly  pruned  back  to 
Keep  a  true  yet  graceful  form. 

In  cemeteries  or  burial  grounds,  this  grouping  of  low 
growing  evergreens,  shrubs,  such  as  DeutziaSpirea,  Weep- 
ing Norway  Spruce,  and  other  low  growing  evergreen 
snrubs,  is  far  better  than  planting  large  growing  trees 
UDon  small  lots.  The  large  growing  trees  in  a  cemetery, 
or  a  small  house  ground,  should  mainly  be  planted  on 
the  road  lines. 


INDEX. 


A. 

PAGE. 

Apple  —  Pruning,  &c.  ,  ...............................  23  to  28 

Varieties,  ...................................  65  to  76 

How  to  grow  from  seed,  ......................  9,  10 

How  to  bud  or  graft,  ..........................  14  to  22 

with  tables  and  list  for  latitudes,  ..............  66  to  76 

Apples  Crab,  illustrated,  ..............................  74 

Acclimation,  etc,  .....................................  96 

Apricots,  ............................................  83 

B. 
Budding—  How  to  do  it,.  .  ;  ____    ......................  14  to  17 

Blackberries,  .......................................  59  to  61 

Best  Age  foi  Transplanting.,  ..........................  11 

Black  Knot,  ........................................  98 

C. 
Curculio,  ............................................  96  to  98 

Cuttings,  ................................  14,  21,  22,  30,  31,  33 

Cherries,  with  table  and  descriptions,  ..................  82  to  87 

Cherries  illustrated  88 


Grafting,  ............................................  13  to  22 

Grape  Layering  ......................................  23 

Grape  Pruning,  ......................................  30  to  34 


INDEX.  127 

PAGE. 

Grape  Planting, 85  to  37 

Orapes—  When  and  How  to  Prune, 37  to  40 

Grape  Trellis, 43  to  45 

II. 

History  and  Value  of  Fruits, 5 

How  to  Grow  from  Seed, 9 

How  to  Prune  the  Grape, 88  to  45 

I. 
Insects, 96 

L. 
Latitudes,  in  every  case  refer  to  the  apple, 

N. 
Nectarines, 89 

P. 

Peach,  with  table  list  of  varieties, 90  to  95 

The  xabie  and  list  has  been  made  with  care  and  thought. 

Pear,  with  table,  history,  origin,  and  value  of  varieties  for 

varied  sections, 76  to  83 

Pear  illustrated, 80 

Plum,  with  history,  insects,  and  table  of  discription, 95  to  103 

Q. 

Quince,  description  of  values,  modes  of  growing,  etc.,.  .103  to  106 

R. 
Raspberries,  culture,  descriptions,  etc., 52  to  59 

S. 
Strawberries,  varieties,  culture,  etc., 46  to  52 


128  INDEX ADDENDA. 

ADDENDA. 
This  portion  of  tlie  Index  is  distinct  from  that  on  Fruits. 

PAGE. 

Bulbs,  tender 123 

Dwarf  evergreens, 124  to  125 

Decoration  of  cemetery  lots, 125 

Home  adornments, 107  to  112 

Hardy  Bulbs  —  va.rioties, 125 

Herbaceous  Paeoines, 123 

How  to  prepare  the  ground  and  form  a  bed, 123  to  124 

Hardy  Flowering  Shrubs, 124 

The  Rose, 112  to  118 

Training  Roses, 113 

Forms  of  Roses, 114  to  115 

Planting  Roses, .115 

Good  Roses  named, 116 

Hybrid  Perpetuals, " 116 

Bourbons, 116 

Teas  and  Chinas, 116 

Layering  Roses, 117 

Careing  for  Roses  in  winter 119 

Rare  new  Roses, 119  to  122 

Roses  in  pots  for  house  culture.   122 


APPENDIX 


ELLIOTT'S  HAND  BOOK  FOR  FRUIT  gROWERS, 

CONTAINING  SOME  DIRECTIONS  AND  TABLES  FOR  PLANT- 
ING TREES — ALSO  FULL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  NEW 
AND  WELL-TESTED    VARIETIES 
.OF    FRUITS. 


PUBLISHER'S  CARD. 


In  order  to  keep  this  work  well  up  with  the  modern 
improvements  in  Horticulture,  it  is  deemed  important 
to  give  its  readers  full  descriptions  of  such  new  Apples, 
Pears,  Peaches,  Plums,  Quinces,  Cherries,  Currants, 
Strawberries,  Blackberries,  Raspberries,  Grapes,  etc.,  as 
have  been  thoroughly  tested  and  found  desirable.  Most 
fruit  growers  feel  a  pride  in  cultivating  new  varieties,  and 
in  being  able  to  show  on  their  own  tables  new  and  rare 
fruits.  In  the  lists  of  fruits  here  described,  they  will 
find  nothing  that  has  not  been  tested  and  found  desira- 
ble for  large  or  small  planters  —for  the  home  garden,  as 
well  as  for  the  orchard — and  nothing  but  what  can  be 
obtained  readily  from  our  best  nurserymen  or  from  their 
agents. 


PL.ANT    YOUJVG     TREES. 


We  cannot  too  strongly  recommend  our  readers  to 
procure  young  trees,  especially  for  orchard  planting. 
They  cost  less,  they  can  be  taken  up  with  more  perfect 


130  APPENDIX. 

roots,  are  much  more  likely  to  live,  and  will  become 
sooner  established  in  a  new  location.  They  can  also  be 
more  readily  trained  to  any  desired  shape.  The  largest 
and  most  successful  planters  invariably  select  young, 
thrifty  trees. 


DISTANCES     FOR     PLANTING. 


Standard  Apples,     .     .     .     .     .    30  feet  apart  each  way. 
Standard  Pears  and  strong 

growing  Cherries,  ...  20  "  "  " 
Duke  and  Morello  Cherries,  .  18  "  "  " 
Standard  Plums,  Apricots, 

Peaches,  Nectarines,     .     .    16  to  18         "          " 

Dwarf  Pears, 10  to  12 

Dwarf  Apples, 10  to  12         "          " 

Quinces, 10  to  12 

Grapes,  rows  10  to  16  feet  apart,    .    7  to  16  feet  in  rows. 
Currants  and  Gooseberries,    ...    4  feet  apart. 
Kaspberries  and  Blackberries,       .     3  to  4  by  5  to  7  feet. 
Strawberries,  for  field  culture,     .     1  by  3  to  3J  feet. 
Strawberries,  for  garden  culture,   .    1  to  2  feet  apart. 


NUMBER  OF    TREES  ON  AN  ACRE. 


30  feet  apart  each  way,  50 
25  "  "  70 

20  "  "  110 

18  "  "  135 

15  "  "  205 

12  "  "  300 


10  ft.  apart  each  way,    435 
8  "  "  680 

6  "  "          1210 

5  "  "          1745 

4  "  "          2725 

3  "  "          4840 


RULE. — Multiply  the  distance  in  feet  between  the 
rows  by  the  distance  the  plants  are  apart  in  the  rows, 
and  the  product  will  be  the  number  of  square  feet  for 


APPENDIX.  131 

each  plant  or  hill ;  which  divided  into  the  number  of 
feet  in  an  acre  (43,560),  will  give  the  numher  of  plants  or 
trees  to  the  acre. 


JVEW  APPLES. 


Primate; — Above  medium  ;  straw  color,  tinged  with 
blush  ;  tender,  fine  grained,  juicy  and  sub-acid  ;  a 
vigorous  grower  and  abundant  bearer.  Ripens  Aug- 
ust and  September. 

Sops  of  Wine — Medium  size,  oblong,  red;  flesh 
white,  often  stained  ;  mild  and  pleasant;  productive. 
August  and  September. 

Tetoisfey — A  Russian  apple  which  has  proved  profit- 
able for  market  growing.  The  tree  is  an  upright, 
spreading  grower,  forming  an  open  head ;  comes  in- 
to bearing  extremely  early,  usually  the  second  year 
after  transplanting,  and  bears  every  year.  Hardy 
as  a  Crab.  Fruit  good  size,  nearly  round ;  yellow, 
beautifully  striped  with  red  ;  flesh  white,  juicy, 
pleasant,  acid,  aromatic.  July  and  August. 

Yellow  Transparent— A  new  Russian  variety  im- 
ported in  1870  through  the  Agricultural  department. 
Pronounced  by  some  who  have  seen  it  as  "the  most 
valuable  early  apple  ever  introduced."  Tree  an  up- 
right grower  and  a  very  early  and  abundant  bearer. 
Fruit  of  good  size  ;  skin  clear  white,  turning  to  a  pale 
yellow  ;  flavor  acid,  and  very  good.  Ripens  from 
ten  days  to  two  weeks  earlier  than  Early  Harvest. 

Autumn. 
Alexander   (Emperor) — Of  Russian  origin.     Large ; 

deep  red  or  crimson  ;  flesh   yellowish   white,   crisp, 

tender  with  pleasant  flavor.    Very  hardy.    October. 
t  ill  urn  it  Strawberry — Medium,  streaked  ;  tender, 

juicy,  fine;  vigorous  and  productive;  very  desirable. 

September  and  October. 


132  APPENDIX. 

Colvert— Of  large  size  ;  striped  ;  sub-acid,  tender  ;  a 
strong  grower  and  great  bearer.  -October. 

Duchess  of  Oldenburg — Of  Russian  origin.  Large 
size,  roundish  ;  streaked  with  red  and  yellow  ;  flesh 
whitish,  juicy ;  flavor  sprightly  sub-acid ;  tree  a 
vigorous  grower,  very  hardy  ;  very  early  and  abund- 
ant bearer.  While  it  is  indispensible  in  the  North, 
it  is  almost  equally  so  in  the  South.  We  confident- 
ly recommend  it  for  the  orchard  as  one  of  the  most 
valuable  sorts  for  market,  or  in  the  garden  for  do- 
mestic use.  September. 

Fall  Jennetting — Large,  oblate;  pale  greenish- 
white,  with  a  blush  ;  tender,  juicy,  mild  and  sub- 
acid.  Tree  vigorous,  spreading  and  productive.  No- 
vember. 

Haas  (Gros  Pommier,  Fall  Queen) — Medium  size ;  pale 
greenish-yellow,  shaded  and  striped  with  red ;  ten- 
der, juicy,  sub-acid.  Tree  vigorous  and  hardy  ;  up- 
right grower;  bears  early  and  abundantly.  Septem- 
ber to  November. 

Red  Heltighelmer — A  rare  German  variety,  very 
recently  introduced.  Fruit  large  to  very  large  ;  skin 
pale  cream  color,  mostly  covered  with  purplish- 
crimson  ;  flesh  white,  firm,  sub-acid,  with  a  brisk, 
pleasant  flavor.  Tree  a  free  grower  and  abundant 
bearer.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest 
of  apples,  and  promises  to'  be  extensively  cultivated. 
September  and  October. 

Stump — A  well  tried  apple,  but  recently  introduced  to 
the  public.  Of  good  size;  roundish,  conical.  Flesh 
firm,  crisp,  juicy,  tender,  sprightly  sub-acid.  Green- 
ish-yellow, shaded  with  red.  Beautifully  fair,  and 
has  commanded  the  highest  prices  wherever  shown. 
October  to  December. 

Twenty  Ounce  (Cayuga  Red  Streak) — Very  large, 
nearly  round;  yellow,  striped  with  red.  Quality 


APPENDIX.  133 

good.     Vigorous  and  good  bearer.    Popular  as  a 
market  variety.    November  to  December. 

Winter. 

Acubafolia — This  is  a  Eussian  apple  of  real  merit, 
nearly  as  large  as  Baldwin  ;  of  fine  appearance,  and 
a  rich  sub-acid  flavor.  Good  for  both  eating  and 
cooking,  and  keeps  well  into  January.  Tree  per- 
fectly hardy ,  and  very  productive. 

Belle  de  Boskoop — Pronounced  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  profitable  of  the  Russian  varieties. 
Large,  bright  yellow,  washed  with  light  red  on  sun- 
ny side,  and  sometimes  with  a  sprinkling  of  russet ; 
flesh  crisp,  firm,  juicy,  sprightly  sub-acid;  quality 
very  good  ;  a  late  keeper. 

Gideon— Raised  in  Minnesota  from  Crab  seed  by  Mr. 
Gideon.  An  upright  grower,  medium  to  large, ;  color 
yellow,  with  vermillion  blush  on  sunny  side.  Mild 
acid  quality,  very  good.  December  to  March. 

Grimes'  Golden  (Grimes'  Golden  Pippin) — An  ap- 
ple of  the  highest  quality  ;  medium  to  large  size  ; 
yellow.  Tree  hardy,  vigorous,  productive.  January 
to  April. 

Mann — Fruit  medium  to  large,  roundish  oblate, 
nearly  regular ;  skin  deep  yellow  when  fully  ripe, 
often  with  a  shade  of  brownish  red  where  exposed, 
and  thickly  sprinkled  with  light  and  gray  dots,  a 
few  being  areole  ;  half  tender  ;  juicy,  mild,  pleasant, 
sub-acid.  Good  to  very  good.  It  is  an  early  and 
annual  bearer.  We  believe  it  to  be  one  of  the  very 
best  sorts  for  cold  climates  and  the  best  late  sort  for 
any  locality. 

Magog-  Red  Streak— Origin,  Vermont.  Bears 
annually  large  crops  ;  valuable  for  its  extreme  hardi- 
ness, vigor,  productiveness  and  long  keeping ;  fruit 


134  APPENDIX. 

medium  or  nearly  so  ;  roundish,  inclining  to  oblong ; 
skin  yellow,  shaded  with  light  red  over  half  the 
fruit ;  flesh  yellowish  ;  a  little  coarse,  moderately 
juicy;  mild  sub-acid.  December  to  March. 

Mcliitosli  Red — An  exceedingly  valuable,  hardy 
Canada  sort.  Medium  size,  nearly  covered  with 
dark  red.  Flesh  white,  fine,  very  tender,  juicy  and 
refreshing,  with  a  peculiar  quince-like  flavor.  A 
good  annual  bearer  of  fair,  handsome  fruit.  Resem- 
bles the  Fameuse,but  larger  and  more  hardy  and  ful- 
ly equal  in  quality  to  this  standard  sort.  Novem- 
ber to  February. 

Pewaukee — A  seedling  from  Duchess  of  Oldenburg. 
Fruit  medium  to  large,  obovate,  surface  bright  yel- 
low, partially  covered  with  dull  red,  striped  and 
splashed,  covered  with  a  gray  bloom,  and  overspread 
with  whitish  dots ;  cavity  small,  basin  shallow,  and 
slightly  fluted ;  calyx  rather  large  ;  stem  variable  in 
length,  with  a  fleshy  substance  on  one  side  from  one- 
half  to  one  inch  long;  core  small;  flesh  yellowish 
white,  breaking,  juicy  ;  flavor  sub-acid,  rich,  aro- 
matic, spicy,  something  like  the  Jonathan  ;  quality 
good  to  best.  Tree  strong  grower,  and  very  hardy. 
January  to  June.  New. 

Rome  Beauty — Large;  yellow,  shaded  with  bright 
red  ;  flesh  yellowish,  tender,  juicy,  sub-acid.  Mod- 
erate grower.  November  to  February. 

Stark — Esteemed  in  Ohio  as  a  long  keeper  and  a  valu- 
able market  fruit.  Fruit  large,  roundish  ;  skin  green- 
ish-yellow, much  shaded  with  light  and  dark  red, 
and  sprinkled  with  brown  dots;  flesh  yellowish, 
juicy,  mild  sub-acid.  January  to  May. 

Walbridge—  Medium  size ;  striped  with  red ;  hand- 
some and  of 'excellent  quality.  Vigorous  grower 
and  productive.  Very  hardy  and  considered  of  great 
value  in  the  North  and  Northwest.  March  to  June. 


APPENDIX.  135 

Wolf  River— A  new  and  beautiful  fruit  of  the  very 
largest  size.  Originated  near  Wolf  River,  Wisconsin, 
and  may  well  be  classed  among  the  iron-clads.  Skin 
greenish-yellow,  shaded  with  crimson  ;  flesh  white, 
juicy,  tender,  with  a  peculiar,  pleasant,  mild  sub- 
acid  flavor.  Tree  strong,  stout  grower,  and  a  great 
bearer.  January  and  February. 

New  Crab  Apples. 

General  Grant — Tree  an  erect,  vigorous  grower  ; 
fruit  in  dense  clusters ;  quality  equal  to  Duchess  of 
Oldenburg.  October  to  December. 

Martha— Gideon's  new  seedling,  No.  5,  from  Minne- 
sota. Immensely  vigorous,  hardy,  producing  every 
year.  Mr.  Gideon  says  :  "  For  sauce  it  surpasses  any 
apple  we  ever  grew."  A  great  acquisition.  October. 

Quaker  Beauty — A  new,  hardy,  strong-growing 
sort ;  bears  large  crops  of  fine  fruit.  Dec.  to  May. 

Van  Wyck— Large  ;  skin  mottled  with  bright  red ; 
sweet.  Tree  vigorous. 

Whitney's  Seedling1 — Large,  averaging  one  and  a 
half  to  two  inches  in  diameter  ;  skin  smooth,  glossy 
green,  striped,  splashed  with  carmine ;  flesh  firm, 
juicy  and  rich.  Said  to  be  a  great  bearer  and  very 
hardy.  Tree  a  vigorous,  handsome  grower.  Has  no 
superior. 


NEW  PEARS. 


Summer. 

Souvenir  du  Congres— Recently  imported  from 
France,  and  of  great  promise.  Fruit  large  and  ex- 
ceedingly handsome ;  beautiful  yellow,  with  bright 
red  in  the  sun ;  melting  and  juicy,  with  a  musky 
flavor.  September.  S. 


136  APPENDIX. 

Autumn. 

Aiijoii  (Beurre  d'Anjou) — A  large,  handsome  pear, 
buttery  and  melting,  with  sprightly  vinous  flavor  ; 
keeps  into  mid-winter.  Tree  a  vigorous  grower  and 
good  bearer.  We  have  no  hesitation  in  pronouncing 
it  to  be  the  most  valuable  pear  in  the  catalogue.  Does 
equally  as  well  as  a  standard  or  a  dwarf.  Keeps  un- 
til the  winter  holidays,  when  it  commands  very  high 
prices  in  the  market.  D.  and  S. 

Howell — Large  size,  light  waxen-yellow,  sweet  and 
melting,  of  excellent  quality  ;  a  strong  and  hardy 
grower  and  good  bearer.  One  of  the  best  American 
varieties  and  extensively  planted  all  over  the  coun- 
try. In  season  during  September  and  October.  S. 
andD. 

Kieffer's  Hybrid— Said  to  be  a  cross  between  the 
Bartlett  and  the  Chinese  Sand  Pear.  Tree  vigorous ; 
an  early  and  regular  bearer;  fruit  said  to  be  of  high 
quality,  and  tree  claimed  to  be  blight-proof.  Octo- 
ber. Should  not  be  planted  north  of  40°  north 
latitude. 

Sheldon — Large  size,  roundish,  greenish-yellow,  most- 
ly covered  with  thin  light  russet ;  very  juicy,  melt- 
ing, sweet  and  vinous;  a  fine  grower  and  good  bear- 
er, but  does  not  succeed  on  the  Quince  ;  it  should, 
however,  have  a  place  in  every  collection,  no  matter 
how  small,  on  account  of  its  good  quality.  In  season 
during  October  and  November.  S. 

Winter. 

Duchesse  de  Bordeaux — Large  size,  with  very 
thick,  tough  skin,  which  renders  it  a  very  valuable 
keeper  for  winter  use ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  rich  ; 
keeps  till  March.  New.  S. 


APPENDIX.  137 

President  Drouard— A  very  good  looking  and 
large  winter  pear,  ripening  from  March  to  May ; 
with  a  delicate  and  abundant  perfume  ;  melting  and 
juicy.  The  tree  grows  vigorously  ;  succeeds  well  as 
a  dwarf.  D.  &  S. 


NEW  CHERRIES. 


Heart  and  Bigarrean. 

English  Morello— Medium  to  large;  blackish-red; 
rich,  acid,  juicy  and  good  ;  very  productive.  August. 

Gov.  Wood— The  finest  of  Dr  Kirtland's  seedlings,  of 
Ohio ;  clear,  light  red,  tender  and  delicious.  Tree  a 
vigorous  grower  and  most  productive.  End  of  June. 
Hangs  well  on  the  tree. 

Large  Montmorency — A  large,  red,  acid  cherry ; 
larger  than  Early  Richmond,  and  fully  ten  days 
later. 

Luelling  (Black  Republican)— A  native  of  Oregon. 
Fruit  very  large,  shining  black  ;  flesh  very  solid  and 
firm  ;  fine  ;  a  good  keeper  and  will  bear  transporta- 
tion well.  Tree  moderate  grower  and  rather  tender  ; 
an  early  and  profuse  bearer. 

Schmidt's  Bigarreau — A  most  promising  cherry; 
fruit  of  immense  size,  of  a  rich  deep  black ;  flesh 
dark,  tender,  very  juicy,  with  a  fine  flavor  ;  bears 
abundantly  and  makes  a  most  noble  dish  for  the 
table. 

Windsor — New.  A  seedling  originated  at  Windsor, 
Canada.  Fruit  large,  liver-colored,  resembling  the 
Elkhorn,  or  Tradescant's  Black  Heart,  nevertheless 
quite  distinct ;  ripens  three  or  four  days  after  that 
variety;  flesh  remarkably  firm  and  of  fine  quality. 
Tree  hardy  and  very  prolific.  A  valuable  late  variety 
for  market  and  family  use. 


138  APPENDIX. 

NEW  PL.UMS. 


IBradshaw — A  very  large  and  fine  early  plum  ;  dark 
violet- red  ;  juicy  and  good.  Tree  erect  and  vigorous; 
very  productive ;  valuable  for  market. 

Beauty  of  Naples— A  new  variety  of  the  highest 
promise ;  size  large,  color  greenish-yellow.-  Flesh 
firm,  juicy  and  very  fine  flavored;  tree  very  hardy 
and  prolific.  Middle  of  September. 

Coe's  Golden  I>rop— Large  and  handsome,  oval ; 
light  yellow  ;  flesh  firm,  rich  and  sweet ;  adheres  to 
the  stone.  Tree  a  moderate  grower  and  very  product- 
ive. Valuable  not  only  on  account  of  its  large  size 
and  fine  appearance,  but  its  lateness.  Last  of  Sep- 
tember. 

Guii — Fruit  very  large,  deep  bluish-purple,covered  with 
thick  bloom ;  flesh  yellowish-green,  coarse,  sweet 
and  pleasant ;  great  bearer  and  very  early ;  tree  a 
hardy  and  rapid  grower.  This  new  variety  is  re- 
garded as  very  valuable  for  market  by  growers  along 
the  Hudson  river.  First  to  middle  of  September. 

Mooer's  Arctic— Size  medium  or  below;  skin  purp- 
lish-black, with  a  thin  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  greenish- 
yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  and  pleasant  flavor.  Charles 
Downing  speaks  of  it  as  follows :  "A  new,  hardy 
plum,  which  originated  on  the  high  lands  of  Aroos- 
took  county,  Maine,  where,  unprotected  and  exposed 
to  cold,  it  has  for  many  years  borne  enormous  crops, 
and  is  claimed  to  be  the  hardiest  plum  grown,  and 
so  far  free  from  black  knots.  Tree  healthy,  vigorous  ; 
an  early  and  abundant  bearer." 

Prunus  Si  m  oil  i — A  distinct  species  from  China. 
Growth  erect,  flowers  small,  white,  appearing  early 
in  spring ;  fruit  large,  flattened,  of  the  size  and  ap- 
pearance of  a  Nectarine,  and  of  a  brick-red  color; 
flesh  yellow,  with  a  peculiar  aromatic  flavor. 


APPENDIX. 


Reine  Claude  de  Bevay  —  Large;  greenish-yel- 
low, spotted  with  red  ;  firm,  juicy,  sugary,  and  of 
fine  quality  ;  very  productive.  September. 


XEW  PEACHES. 


Coiikliiig  —  A  new,  large,  beautiful  golden-yellow 
peach,  marbled  with  crimson  ;  succeeds  the  Craw- 
ford's Early  ;  of  fine  quality  ;  very  handsome. 

Early  Canada  -  Originated  at  Jordan,  Canada.  As 
early  as  the  earliest.  Of  good  size,  of  firm  quality, 
and  handsome  appearance.  Its  earliness,  origin, 
and  the  fact  that  the  flesh  cleaves  from  the  stone 
almost  as  freely  as  with  the  later  varieties,  creates 
an  unusual  demand  for  trees  of  this  variety. 

Foster — Originated  near  Boston,  Mass.  Large  ;  deep 
orange-red,  becoming  very  dark  red  on  the  sunny 
side  ;  flesh  yellow,  very  rich  and  juicy,  with  sub- 
acid  flavor.  Ripens  with  Early  Crawford.  Very 
handsome. 

HalcN  Early — Medium  size;  greenish-white,  with 
red  cheek  ;  first  quality.  Tree  healthy,  good  grower 
and  productive.  The  earliest  good  peach  we  have, 
and  promises  to  be  a  leading  orchard  variety. 

Wlieatland— Originated  with  D.  S.  Rogers,  near 
Rochester,  N.  Y.  Mr  R.,  who  has  large  orchards, 
including  the  leading  sorts,  thinks  this  the  finest  of 
all.  Fruit  large  ;  color  golden-yellow,  with  crimson 
tint ;  flesh  firm  and  of  fine  quality.  Ripens  between 
Crawford's  Early  and  Late. 

Wag'er — Large;  yellow,  more  or  less  colored  in  the 
sun;  juicy  and  of  fair  flavor.  While  high  quality 
and  great  beauty  cannot  be  claimed  for  this  fruit, 
the  trees  have  such  remarkable  vigor  and  vitality 
that  they  not  only  produce  fruit  in  great  quantities, 


140  APPENDIX. 

but  produce  it  with  a  degree  of  certainty  and  regu- 
larity which  is  quite  unusual.  These  facts  com- 
mend it  to  all  planters  for  market  purposes.  Last  of 
August. 

Waterloo  -  Originated  at  Waterloo,  N.  Y.  Of  medium 
to  large  size  ;  color  whitish-green,  marbled  with  red , 
deepening  into  dark  purple-crimson  in  the  sun  ;  flesh 
greenish-white,  with  an  abundance  of  sweet,  vinous 
juice;  adheres  some  to  the  stone,  like  Amsden, 
Hale's  Early,  etc.  Ripened  at  Waterloo,  July  14, 
1878.  In  1879,  three  or  four  days  ahead  of  Alexan- 
der. For  so  early  a  peach  it  is  a  remarkable  keep- 
er, ripe  specimens  having  been  kept  in  perfect  con- 
dition nearly  a  week.  This  makes  it  valuable  for 
shipping. 


NEW     QUINCES. 


Meech's  Prolific — A  valuable  new  quince,  remark- 
able for  its  early  and  regular  bearing  and  great  pro- 
ductiveness. The  fruit  is  of  good  size  and  form,  and 
beautiful  color ;  it  is  shaped  like  a  handsome  pear, 
writh  smooth,  fine  skin,  of  a  bright  orange-yellow  ; 
flesh  very  fragrant,  delicious  and  tender.  Unsur- 
passed for  cooking. 


\I-:W     STRAWBERRIES. 


Crescent  Seedling— (P.)  Large,  averaging  larger 
than  Wilson's  Albany  ;  conical  ;  color  a  handsome, 
bright  scarlet ;  quality  very  good.  In  productive- 
ness unequaled,  having  produced  over  400  bushels 
per  acre.  Plants  very  strong  and  vigorous ;  a  most 
valuable  market  sort. 


APPENDIX.  141 

Jewell — Among  the  new  kinds.  This  seems  to  pre- 
sent great  merit,  and  justifies  a  test  by  all  who  desire 
the  best  new  varieties. 

Sharpies* — Very  large,  average  specimen,  under  good 
cultivation,  measuring  one  and  a  half  inches  in  di- 
ameter; generally  oblong,  narrowing  to  the  apex, 
irregular,  often  flattened  ;  clear  light  red,  with  a 
smooth,  shining  surface  ;  firm  ;  sweet,  with  a  delic- 
ious aroma ;  vigorous,  hardy  and  very  productive 
when  raised  in  hills  with  runners  cut  off. 


NEW     R4SPBERRIES. 


Golden  Queen — This  variety  is  a  seedling  of  the 
Cuthbert,  but  the  color  of  the  fruit  is  a  rich,  golden- 
yellow.  The  flavor  is  of  the  highest  quality,  pro- 
nounced by  some  superior  to  the  old  Brinkle's  Or- 
ange, the  finest  flavored  of  all  raspberries.  In  size 
equal  to  the  Cuthbert ;  immensely  productive;  a 
very  strong  grower  and  hardy  enough  for  extreme 
northern  latitudes,  having  stood  uninjured  when 
even  the  Cuthbert  suffered.  The  desire  for  a  yellow 
raspberry  of  high  quality,  combined  with  vigorous 
growth  and  perfect  hardiness,  is  believed  to  be  fully 
met  in  this  variety. 

Gregg" — Of  great  size  ;  fine  quality  ;  very  productive 
and  hardy.  It  takes  the  same  position  among  black 
caps  as  Cuthbert  among  the  red  sorts.  No  one  can 
afford  to  be  without  it. 


NEW     CURRANTS. 


Cherry— Very  large;  deep  red  ;  rather  acid  ;  bunches 
short.    Plants  erect,  stout,  vigorous  and  productive. 


142  APPENDIX. 

L,a  Versaillaise — Very  large,  red  ;  bunch  long  ;  of 
great  beauty  and  excellent  quality.  One  of  the  fin- 
est and  best,  and  should  be  in  every  collection. 
Very  productive. 

I^ee's  Prolific  Black — A  new  English  variety. 
The  fruit  is  large,  and  of  superior  quality  ;  the  bush 
is  a  vigorous  grower  and  enormously  productive, 
rendering  it  very  profitable. 

White  Grape— Very  large;  yellowish-white;  sweet, 
or  very  mild  acid ;  excellent  quality  and  valuable 
for  the  table.  The  finest  of  the  white  sorts.  Very 
distinct  from  White  Dutch,  having  a  low,  spreading 
habit,  and  dark  green  foliage.  Very  productive. 


NEW     GOOSEBERRIES. 

Down  ing1— Origin,  Newburg,  N.  Y.  Fruit  much  larg- 
er than  Houghton  ;  roundish,  light  green,  with  dis- 
tinct veins;  skin  smooth;  flesh  soft,  juicy  and  very 
fine.  Vigorous  and  productive.  The  most  valuable 
American  sort. 

Industry— Large;  oval;  dark  red,  hairy  ;  rich  and 
agreeable.  Although  this  is  a  foreign  variety  it  has 
succeeded  admirably  on  our  grounds,  where  it  has 
fruited  extensively  for  several  years.  We  can  con- 
fidently recommend  it,  both  for  the  garden  of  the 
amateur  and  the  market  plantation.  The  plant  is 
remarkably  vigorous  and  productive,  and  the  fruit 
large,  beautiful  and  of  excellent  quality.  Where 
shoots  are  left  long,  they  fruit  to  the  very  tips.  We 
regard  it  as,  on  the  whole,  the  best  foreign  goose- 
berry ever  introduced. 

Miii Ill's  Improved — From  Vermont.  Large,  oval, 
light  green,  with  bloom ;  flesh  moderately  firm,  sweet 
and  good.  Vigorous  grower. 


APPENDIX.  143 

NEW     BLACKBERRIES. 


Erie — Very  large  and  very  early.  Perfectly  hardy,  a 
strong  grower  and  great  bearer,  producing  larger, 
sweeter  berries,  earlier  in  ripening  than  any  other 
sort. 

Taylor's  Prolific — A  new  variety  of  the  greatest 
value.  It  is  so  extremely  hardy  as  to  have  stood  30° 
below  zero  unharmed.  Berries  large  (nearly  as  large 
as  Kittatinny)  and  of  the  highest  quality.  Canes  of 
strong,  spreading  growth,  and  in  productiveness  it 
is  simply  remarkable,  fully  equaling  in  this  respect 
the  Snyder,  which  it  nearly  doubles  in  size.  It 
ripens  with  Kittatinny.  The  editor  of  the  Indiana 
Farmer,  in  speaking  of  this  variety,  says:  "Never 
have  we  seen  such  masses  of  fruit  growing  on  vines 
before.  .  The  strong  stalks  were  literally  bent  dowrn 
to  the  ground  with  the  weight  that  was  upon  them." 


NEW     GRAPES. 

Brighton — A  cross  between  Concord  and  Diana 
Hamburg.  Resembles  Catawba  in  color,  size  and 
form  of  bunch  and  berry.  Flesh  rich,  sweet,  and  of 
the  best  quality.  Ripens  earlier  than  Delaware. 
Vine  vigorous  and  very  hardy.  This  variety  has 
now  been  thoroughly  tested,  and  it  may  be  truly 
said  to  be  without  an  equal  among  early  grapes. 

Diamond — A  white  grape  recently  introduced,  and 
undoubtedly  very  valuable.  A. cross  between  Concord 
and  lona.  A  vigorous  grower,  with  leaf  resembling 
Concord,  very  free  from  mildew.  Bunch  large,  well 
filled,  moderately  compact,  berry  about  the  size  of 
Concord  ;  flesh  melting  and  juicy,  sweet  to  the  cen- 
ter, and  free  from  foxiness  ;  skin  thin,  but  sufficient- 


144  APPENDIX. 

ly  tough  to  bear  packing  and  handling  well.  Ripens 
about  with  Delaware.  Very  productive. 

Eaton — Leaf  large,  thick,  leathery,  covered  on  the  un- 
derside with  a  thick  brownish-yellow  down.  Bunch 
very  large,  weighing  12  to  25  ounces  ;  compact,  often 
double  shouldered ;  berries  very  large,  many  one 
inch  in  diameter,  round,  black,  covered  with  a  heavy 
blue  bloom  ;  adheres  firmly  to  the  stem.  Seeds 
large,  from  one  to  four  ;  skin  thin,  but  tough,  with 
no  bad  taste  when  eaten  close ;  pulp  quite  large, 
tender,  dissolving  easily  in  the  mouth.  Very  juicy, 
as  good  or  better  quality  than  the  Concord,  with 
much  less  of  the  native  odor.  Ripens  with-Concord 
or  a  little  earlier. 

Moore's  Early — A  new  grape  raised  from  seed  by 
John  B.  Moore,  Concord,  Mase.,  in  1872.  It  is  des- 
cribed as  follows  :  Bunch  large ;  berry  round  (as 
large  as  the  Wilder  or  Rogers'  No.  4);  color  black, 
with  a  heavy  blue  bloom ;  quality  better  than  the 
Concord. 

Moyer — A  new  grape  originated  in  Canada.  In  habit 
of  growth  and  hardiness  it  resembles  the  Delaware 
very  much,  but  ripens  earlier.  Flavor  sweet,  deli- 
cious; skin  tough  but  thin  ;  pulp  tender  and  juicy. 

\iatf  a  I'll — This  new  white  grape  originated  in  Lock- 
port,  N.  Y.,  in  1868,  and  is  a  cross  between  the  Con- 
cord and  Cassady  ;  first  fruiting  in  1872  ;  it  has  since 
regularly  borne  large  crops  of  fine  fruit.  The  vine 
is  a  remarkably  strong  grower  and  very  hardy  ;  the 
leaves  are  thick  and  leathery  and  dark  glossy  green  ; 
bunches  very  large  and  uniform  and  are  very  com- 
pact ;  berries  large  or  larger  than  Concord,  and  skin 
thin  but  tough,  which  insures  their  shipping  quali- 
ties ;  quality  good,  very  little  pulp,  melting  and 
sweet  to  the  center  ;  ripens  before  Concord. 


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